FROM BLOGGER TO BOOKER: JEREMY DANTÉ FOR MAJOR

there i sat, in front of katia sherman, president of major model management. i was in head to toe black on black, wearing a suit. and for the first time in my life, i felt visible. after eight years of hardwork, over 6,000 posts, many sleepless nights and countless moments spent thinking about how best to discuss this idea of beauty. after examining the culture of high fashion as it relates to each and everyone of us- i felt myself being elevated. referred to the agency by sessilee lopez, the fact that i am blessed enough to even type that onto this site, is major. as i spoke candidly with katia about the industry during my interview, speaking on my view point and the power i feel that lives in the world of modeling- it was this cinematic moment where laughter flows in slow motion. my entrance into the building will be a panoramic wide screen shot; soundtracked by the new york city traffic of park avenue. the true meaning of a dream come true, in my life.

“people like you come along once every blue moon”, she said. and while there was little explaining, my resume sat in front of katia as she looked at me, almost sensing my energy. i didn’t have to explain myself as i felt i had to so many other times before; when telling people about my dream. my spirit was calm. she got it. she got me. words were exchanged but more powerfully was the energy that was transferred. i was with sessilee a few weeks prior in soho, and sat next to her at dinner, looking at her and telling her in the most honest way; “i don’t think you understand how you’ve impacted culture.” see, the moment i seen sessilee in the all black italian vogue in 2007, i was sitting in my one bedroom, income based loft apartment- eating saltine crackers and peanut butter for dinner. in that apartment, i learned as much as i could possibly self teach myself about the fashion industry. over a three year period, i was isolated; not speaking to my family after being put out of my home. from polaroids to runway booking, to ad campaigns and beyond- i became who i have been known as; as a writer, and digital personality. the unique opportunity i created for myself has been one built on identity and knowledge of self. what you see in images and words is who i am- it’s not this fantasy that has no grasp of reality. i am who i portray myself to be- no fluff, real shit.

in understanding who i am; i have been able to properly sense and promote faces, energy and cultural nuances not often spoken upon. it’s this dream come true that i am living now; where i am able to grow and be recognized for my instincts. the real work begins now. i have been installed as a part of major model management, here in new york city. the first agency i looked at, in creating the content that has driven this site since 2008. i am a part of the image and development division, where i will work with the agency to bring the biggest stars and most beautiful faces to a global audience. this act of manifestation could not have been done without each and every one of you. you have contributed to my success in strong, and silent ways. i thank you every single day for sharing moments, understanding beauty and for appreciating the power of image as it has been discussed within this space. the words that i write are mere glimpses into the new reality that we will embark upon together. the content will shift in this space, and will become more sharply geared towards the work of development that we create with our image board at major model management. in representing the integrity of that energy, this moment means a realization of hard work earning me a place where i have communicated a desire to be for many, many years. development and growth are a process very close to my heart; in this- i encourage you all to continue following my story in a way that inspires your own.

special thanks to sessilee lopez
visit majormodel.com for casting information
thank you for believing

FASHION ON FILM: DIOR AND I

Document 1 (Page 5)there are very few documentaries that encapsulate the feel of emotion that i feel for beauty. there is a moving experience of creativity that is so powerful; a feeling of gratification and belief. and those emotions were felt during my viewing “dior and i”. directed by frédéric tcheng, the documentary follows raf simons upon his entering of the house of christian dior as creative director. following the director over an eight week period as he creates his first couture collection, not only for christian dior but the first of his entire career. known notoriously for his extensive work as a design minimalist, the documentary showcases the maximal methods and meticulous processes that raf operates within. the most fascinating of processes to see within the film, was the delivering of references to the atelier, when communicating designs for the actual collections. whereas sketches are delivered, raf’s approach is very modern as he is described in the film as “very organized”. compiling things in a digital form, raf works from digital files; packets of references are sent to each seamstress in the atelier. there were interesting technological techiques which were shown in the film, in creating and trying different aestetics which further welded the beauty of high art and high fashion together in a new, refreshing way. emotionally moved by process, and rocked by the insurmountable pressure to elevate and maintain the legacy of the house, the film is a must see for those who feel an emotional attachment to the world of style and design. the flowered walls, the introduction of the design team- it was all done in the same vein as the other fashion documentaries which introduce a set of characters to give the house of dior some heart. the editing of the film shifted between modern, current day moments and then sifted in and out of dialogued moments intended to represent the spirit of christian dior himself, in a reflective way; borrowing his own words from his autobiography. it’s a stunning piece of documentarian gold that allows you an insight to raf, the man and the emotional component that artists working within fashion feel; how they handle pressure and how delicate, and important all these elements mean to creative process. a moving depiction of raf simons for the house of christian dior.

now playing in select theaters ‘dior and i’ will be
available for digital purchase
june 30th via amazon instant video

FACES OF FALL • THE TOP 10 FEMALES OF FW15

this fall brought greater effort of diversification to the runways around the globe. of the season, there were a few stand out faces stomping the runway and breaking barriers in the process. with new stars shining onto the runways of marc jacobs, fendi and the ultra exclusive, prada- i wanted to revisit my early days in this space. the days when models assisted in constructing the content seen, thus inspiring the dialogue that has compelled readers to this space, since 2008. selected solely for their presence on the runway; if it’s one thing we’ve learned- it starts with runway. the stars seen here today, have the potential to become stars of tomorrow, and some are even well on their way. listed in alphabetical order, these are the stand out faces i’ve personally selected for the 2015 fall/winter show season. recognize where you seen the spotlight hit first.

AAMITO STACIE LAGUM as the first ever winner of africa’s next top model, representing uganda, aamito lagum had a breakout season on the runway this fall. rivaling runway bookings of even america’s next top model contestants and victor’s, lagum walked a staggering 20 shows this season. represented by DNA models in new york, viva models in paris, london and barcelona; aamito opened at balenciaga in paris this past week and walked for marc by marc jacobs, here in new york. with an international following thanks to her victory on africa’s next top model, ammito is a new face with incredible versatility for both the commercial and luxury markets. i will definitely be checking for aamito on the editorial front.

AMILNA ESTEVÃO represented by the society, new york, amilna amilna estevão won the elite model contest at age 14 in angola brazil in 2013. her debut at new york fashion week seen her hit the catwalk for alexander wang, while she had notable bookings walking for fendi, prada and balenciaga, booking a total of 33. amilan’s doll-like features make her a prime candidate for beauty campaigns and she would fit easily into an array of editorial bookings along with some commercial work as well. at the age of 20 years old, amilna’s promise in europe is that of legend. she is represented by elite models, internationally and her mother agency in luanda is da banda model management. amilna is a young star on the rise.

AYA JONES represented by the lions in new york; aya jones is fast becoming a breakout runway superstar. she debuted as an exclusive for prada last season, returning this season with greater confidence and poise behind her. with her agency pulling a rarity of industry know-how and skill, aya walked in couture shows for valentino and christian dior. and for fall show season, absolutely killed the competition walking 44 shows; including marc jacobs, valentino, prada, christian dior, tom ford, dolce and gabbana, burberry, miu miu, versace and fendi. outside of runway, aya has surfaced in advertising campaigns, being used for marc jacobs’ beauty campaign for 2015. ahead of the pack, aya is the latest face to rival the new set of supers.

GRACE BOL a stunner from sudan, grace bol has one of the strongest looks in fashion today. with severe features that set her apart from many other girls around the world, grace is a go-to face for edgy brands, in the high end circuit.with a fall season show tally of 15 shows, grace walked some of the most high profile style shows including vivienne westwood, kanye west adidas- which seen her being used for their look book, as well as balenciaga, KTZ and hermès. appearing on the cover of interview magazine, russia with editorial features in harper’s bazaar UK for the month of march- grace is fairly established as a working model. elite models in new york, oui management in paris, why not models in milan and storm in london.

IMAAN HAMAAN already a recognized face in the glossies, imaan hamaan has been on the scene since 2013, appearing on the runway for givenchy and gaultier couture. represented by DNA models in new york, why not models in milan, and by viva models in barcelona, paris and london; imaan is from the netherlands. with a modest 7 show bookings this fall, imaan was seen for some of the best labels on the catwalk appearing for ralph lauren in new york, and givenchy for the men’s show in paris. she booked the SS15 givenchy campaign, and has already graced the cover of american vogue last year, with five features outside of that. this year, she continues her editorial dominance, holding it down in the pages of american vogue.

Processed with VSCOcam with b1 presetLEILA NDA runway killer, leila nda was born for the catwalk. with her mother agency in brussels, leila is repped by new york models in new york, women management in paris, fashion model management in milan and models 1 in london. for the 2014 calendar year, leila walked 80 shows, including gucci and marc jacobs. this season sees her runway dominance continue, as she walked nearly 40 shows, killing couture- walking for valentino, dior, giambattista valli and elie saab. during fall show season, she appeared again at marc jacobs, returned as a member of the balmain army, was seen at balenciaga, hermès and yes, dior too. for the month of march, leila appears in the pages of italian, american and teen vogue.

Processed with VSCOcam with b1 presetLEOMIE ANDERSON in 2011, leomie anderson appeared for the british reality show, ‘the modeling agency’. the reality show followed her career beginnings at her mother agency, premiere models in london. outside of the reality show, imerges a real star. represented by fusion models, new york, oui management in paris, monster in milan and uno in barcelona; anderson walked 12 shows this season, but shows real promise as a stand out face. active in the realm of social media, chronicling her pathway on and off the runway, she actively manages a blog called, “cracked china cup”. in today’s modern day market, leiomie’s unabashed, openness about her modeling career makes her a face and personality to watch.

MARIA BORGES hitting the scene in 2011, maria borges has garnered a juggernaut of powerful bookings which show more quality than quality, over everything else. her second season out, she was featured as a part of the givenchy couture castings, and from there; her involvement with the house brought additional bookings. she was cast for the spring 2014 givenchy campaign and appeared on the cover of vogue portugal last may. for the month of march, borges appears for her own solo cover, in the steven klein shot cover series for l’officiel singapore. for the FW15 show season, maria booked 9 shows. among them, givenchy in paris, moschino in milan and carolina herrera in new york.

RILEY MONTANA last september, riley montana was featured in the unforgettable mert + marcus shot, W magazine cover. before that, she was cast for two givenchy campaigns, two seasons in a row, and and became and editorial regular gracing the glossies by way of vogue in japan, germany, italy and paris. represented by new york models in new york, oui in paris, d’management in milan, premier in london, jill models in antwerp and LA models being her mother agency- riley is a dope girl with expensive features. another girl recruited for the balmain army, riley was also seen for the fall show season, on the runways of marc jacobs, amidst her 14 count show season tally. with vivid luxury appeal, riley is a face to watch this year.

TAMI WILLIAMS last december, a bright new face sprung onto the cover of french elle. represented by elite in new york and paris, as well as why not model management in milan; there is an almost quiet take over from tami. garnering editorial features throughout last year; in 2015, tami has begun circulating the editorial more heavily. for february, she has already appeared for W magazine and the new york times style magazine; and appears twice in the march issue of american vogue. this fall show season; williams booked 40 shows, appearing for marc jacobs, valentino, balmain, dolce & gabbana and calvin klein. she debuted on the catwalk in fall 2014, at marc jacobs, and walked for alexander wang. eyes on the catwalk, tami is here.

all agency representation current at time of reporting
special thanks to models.com for statistics

FALL COLLECTIONS • TOP FIVE PARIS

many consider paris the fashion capital of the world. and while that may be true in some senses, can that still be the case in today’s age? with the globalization of fashion, style influence drips from many corners of the globe, spanning far beyond the city of paris, france. considering it’s enriched history of fashion, and national accreditation of age old techniques, this season; i took a different look at paris. in understanding cultural nuances from city to city. there’s an air of effortlessness that i look for with style. there is a presence of things falling together in all the right ways that i love so much. during show season, i look for the same ease, but also look for intention. i think concept during show season is what really drives my selection process. the ways that design is being reinterpreted- it’s important to follow these changes. such change represents the evolution of our thinking in how we view ourselves as people. with ease and great intention, here is paris.

BALENCIAGA the house of balenciaga feels new again. with the installment of alexander wang as creative director, the label is slowly becoming an evolution of modernized womenswear. not that the label lacked such innovation prior; but there is a gritty, darker edge to the clothes which i love. leave it to an american in paris to deliver such an aesthetic. delivering the best diversity that paris had to offer this season, the range of ethnicities that was involved for runway casting was another aspect that i couldn’t help but feel the american influence. the collection had piercing inspiration, as a modern take on old age style was seen. it’s always interesting, the approach with age in high fashion. there is a clientele that is of greater age range, but then there is this need to appeal to the younger demographic. the challenge is to appeal to both audiences without isolating the one or the other. a true challenge of design and beauty, this collection and wang as an artist really understands how to weld the two worlds together. for one woman, the designs appear regal and to the young girl, the designs seem cool. with balenciaga, this season, age defiance is seen in the styling. the seriousness of the collection clothing became accented with youth by accessories. the boots and gloves mixed with the voluminous outerwear of the collection. a rooted inspiration of the houses code, reminiscent of the cocoon coat from 1957. beautiful broaches and pins literally pierced through the collection pieces, almost allowing a leak of new to seep from each look. beautiful attention to texture in the collection, with strict use of color palette. my favorite collection this season, of all the fashion capitals.

BALMAIN the balmain army was in full force this show season. boldly taking on the fall show season with enriched colors that rival spring; the collection presented another notch of feminine glamour from the vision of olivier rousting. another collective of diversified ethnicity representing style in a real way. the house of balmain under rousting has reach a new plateau of relevance. with the youth of their creative director at the root of their strength, a new concentration of publicity has swirled around the house. from musical artists in the front row, to casting them for the house campaigns from season to season, there is a true visibility for the house. while other labels can seem forced, balmain remains powerfully intentional. in fashion the idea of creating a woman that represents the spirit of the clothes, and the history of the house is not uncommon. the balmain woman is self assured, powerful and a go-getter. you feel that energy in the casting, you feel it in the shows, and even beyond the models- the clothes take on stand alone form with their use of color, cut and extravagance. with a bit of new wave feel, there is an elegance in the concepts introduced; it feels almost 80’s but in this way that is digestable of today’s style scene. silhouette was kept sensual for the season, and all around- this shit was just pretty. fashion can be psychological, and reach beneath the surface; but it’s always dope to see something undeniably pretty. and that this was.

HAIDER ACKERMANN in speaking to the effortlessness of style, comes haider ackermann. representing cohesion from season to season; there is a menswear/womenswear hybrid aesthetic about his collections. what i will say of ackermann is that his castings usually lack diversity, but this season there was a slight change. as one of those houses that is so luxurious they don’t even shoot campaigns, there is an almost high fashion underground feel of the ackermann label. there is a vivid, defined woman at ackermann, and the gloves, the blazers and the plunging neckline are all in her repertoire. there is a commonality in the collections i choose from paris, and all really encapsulate a certain darkness. ackermann delivers that sense of dark seduction each season. there is a refined quality that speaks to the upper echelon of high society, reflected in his price points at retail; but there is a true presence. i think it’s such an art form to combine concepts with cast, while also understanding that both have their own singular power. fashion and design is really about etching an identity, it’s about creating a lifestyle with elements that create a bigger picture. they create comfort, and they speak to the unspoken truths of what appeals to not only the mind, but the eye. this season’s collection had a much more hard egdged feel to it. another unique identifier of ackermann, are his silhouettes. it’s almost like a coloring book, you can use whatever colors you want- so long as you stay within the lines. this approach creates a design identity. the structure of such form is visible in ackermann’s work.

39-stella-mccartneySTELLA MCCARTNEY the talk of ease in style which i mention was seen in the stella mccartney collection this season. while i’ve long loved the things mccartney does with print; this season, i was particularly interested in what she did with grey, and also with faux fur. a master of concept and execution- the designs are often flawless. a little slinky sweater, a slouchy silhouette to something more closely held to the body, stella knows what she’s doing. the palette for this season was, for the most part, controlled. lines in the collection shed drama in extension, which i really loved i think womenswear has done really dope shit with shapes and lengthening the female form is a goal for most women. that lengthening says power, it expresses strength. there is a fluidity to the lines seen in a stella mccartney collection and here, this season, those lines were as beautiful as ever. diversity was well represented in model casting, and i loved the ways that skin was shown in a sophisticated but still sexy way. a really strong collection for women, by a woman and one who knows what works both in the market place, and privately in every day use of function for the modern day, style conscious woman. excited to see how these pieces will be used for editorial, as well as how they will be depicted in the seasons campaign. much of this seasons collections seem to rely on bold color stories, and i enjoyed the fact that stella really allowed for a story to be told in a different way this fall.

VAL_0249VALENTINO a fashion house free of gimmicks, and always serving the ultra luxe forms of sophsitcation- the house of valentino another beautiful collection for the fall/winter 2015 show season in paris. spurring into a set of black and white collections pieces, the color story of the collection lightened up with a earth tones. in speaking to the silhouettes of collections existing as the lines and the detailing of textiles acting as colors; valentino is another label that has expertise in creating a feel in this way. since valentino garavani’s retirement, maria grazia chiuri and pier paolo piccioli have sourced their choice silhouettes from the house archives. the 60’s brought the debut of the house of valentino, and some of his most iconic designs were created during this era. the vintage component of influence and modernization in detailing is what propels the house of valentine forward today. excellently managed on the digital front, the house regularly debuts collections via live stream, and there is a consistent feel from womenswear to menswear. both collections share a likeness of style, while each is individualized in a really beautiful way. an array of print and details were seen- everything from dragons to florals. while i love the collection, and admire consistency at this high a level from a fashion house; i would love to see greater forms of modernization plugged in. there is an air of the demure in the clothes. it’s all very innocent, and while we’re talking about image and modernization, i think it would be interesting to see a bit more sex appeal. nothing vulgar; something more suggestive. but maybe that’s me speaking to my youth, and as someone cultured by a modern day approach. a strong collection and beautiful addition to the archives of valentino; i am expecting a romantic, soft and feminine campaign to follow. would love to see some of the romantic design details plugged into something more sleek and innovative. that zoolander ending was unnecessary. take the fashion comedy to moschino.

 visit style.com for full collection coverage of the FW15 season
click image to view collection gallery

FALL COLLECTIONS • TOP FIVE MILAN

it was a collection of firsts and lasts in milan, this season. we seen the new creative director at gucci taking the helm, presenting an extension of the 70’s style concepts that were once put on by past creative director, frida giannini. though underwelmingly presented, the new change remains as yet unseen as to how successful the new successor will, in fact, be for the legendary house. pucci closed the tenure of dundas at pucci, while others played the field with greater diversification, and sleek italian style. milan is one of those places that reinterprets glamour in a very personalized way. there is excess, and then the restrain of true luxury, all in looking to provide a greater breadth of what global fashion is today.

BALLY always one for sleek style, bally is one of my favorite labels to watch from season to season. usually opting out of the runway show presentation, the bally aesthetic is one of refined elegance and beautiful style. founded in switzerland in 1851, bally began as a shoe manufacturer and developed through the years. the collection was presented via look book and the collection palette weighs fair against other labels of the season. the palette was strong in it’s use of camel tones, as the collection also offered dope use of greens. the collection was especially strong it’s use of leather. collection of refined concepts, bally didn’t break any new ground and almost followed suit with what has worked well for other labels. a typical fall collection, what was presented here stresses that of quality and not innovation. i loved the collection for simple reasons, among them palette was wide ranged. filled to the brim with powerful looks, the collection packs it’s power as a whole. bally is definitely a label that has potential to really raise the bar. i don’t understand why the reason to do lookbooks as oppose to runway presentations. the collection was expertly styled, and was almost on the verge of being completely color blocked from look to look. among the strongest look books for the fall season, with an array of style options that are style standards.

EMILLIO PUCCI the last emilio pucci collection designed by peter dundas walked for milan fashion week this season. the usually sexy pucci aesthetic, which dundas is to credit for was ever present. prior to dundas being installed as CD of the house, was matthew williamson. williamson has continued his love for print in his own design aesthetic. and with dundas, he came from the house of roberto cavalli, another label that favors print. dundas was able to inject a bohemian flare at the house of pucci during his six year tenure. producing of such designs brought a new layer of publicity and interest from models in the industry, and celebrities alike. the pucci name returned to fashion columns and red carpets around the world, and what dundas has done in revitalizing the sex appeal, often associated with italian culture has been in full swing. whats more interesting of the pucci house isn’t this present collection or even where dundas will end up next, but who will succeed dundas. will this new creative director ensure continuity of the sexy bohemian flavor, or will the house seek a much more demure aesthetic. will an entirely new talent be introduced, or will there be an internal selection process for who is a part of the pucci atelier, currently? with shifts in fashion happening more often than not in the past five years, i’ll be keeping an eye on pucci; their progression and will be mindful of any digression as well. peter dundas has done an exceptional job during his time at pucci, one that he should be very proud of. a strong vision that was a new take on pucci was presented, and his refreshing take on italian style fashion at the house will be missed.

FENDI the genius of karl lagerfeld, collaboratively represented along with silvia fendi was in full swing for this fall show season. the fendi furs were out to play and there was a focus on accessories, as a middle market of greater potential, for the house. the theme of exotic birds was present in the collection, as seen peeking out of the collection’s handbags. the diversification of the european casting process was well represented this season, as the collection house beautiful warm tones with innovative use of leather. the silhouettes represented, and shapes that were designed brought about a greater modernity of the fendi design DNA, which has been an on-going process for the last several years. i loved this collection, with it’s use of futurism and still familiar, mod-like design presence. geometic textile squares and print were seen throughout the collection, as fur ankle boots and even eyewear all had a presence throughout the collection’s runway show. the voluminous down jackets, and the smock-like use of leather was genius. new faces and new supers all walked together for a collection that was among my favorites of fendi, and for the fall/winter 2015 in milan overall. great concepts, strong enough to evoke a difference, while gentle enough to not disrupt the flow of consumption. beginning with warm tones, the collection palette cooled to the finale, presenting a chic set of off-white pieces. there were a few looks that provide an ease in transition from season to season, and with expectation of a dope campaign to follow, I’m excited about this collection on the editorial front as well. full range of greatness from cast to concept.

N21_0035NO. 21 always looking to represent some sense of balance, my collection selections from season to season are a collective of minimal designs that speak to the unspoken appeal of simplistic beauty, while some collections hinge on theatricality and really pushing forward. alessandro dell’aqua is a designer who understands the balance of both worlds. being plucked from his own namesake label, not being able to use his own name, the No. 21 collections represent a more personal touch of style from him, in my mind. beautiful textures of knitwear in wool were balanced with a high end luxe feel of gold at the entrance of the collection. like many other color stories of beauty, those shades swarmed into waves of blue and droplets of green. those shades soon began to fade into soft pinks and beige, all while the concept of fall felt strongly represented. the idea of silhouettes was deconstructed in a beautiful way, as ruffles were composed on the female form that pushed the limitation of what has been typically associated with chic. interesting as a concept, the collection housed this deconstructed silhouette in the form of dresses and one piece style items. i loved the use of black, and the muted tones of the collection most. the casting was as diverse as the collections concepts, and i was very pleased to see this collection. a wide range of style was seen and No. 21 has been a favorite of mine for a while. this season, however, there was greater strength in design and casting, as a main element to my selection process this go ’round. a viable balance of beauty, design and feminine presence.

PRADA the crowned jewel of milan is the house of prada. the top tier of luxury, and the most coveted booking for a model in all of milan- there exists a power and thus an influence at the hand of miucccia prada that is undeniable. there is a clear mod vibe i am constantly getting from the house of prada. that feel was present in this collection. miuccia is clearly influenced by this style favoring, as you see it in the miu miu collections as well. the house of prada always represents a feel of cleanliness in concept that is kept very tight. among the more diversified casts seen at prada in a very long time, there appeared three models of color in the runway show. a feat that is damn near unheard of in the world of fashion. certain bookings can change a females career in the world of modeling, and with the number of new faces of color that have been seen, this represents greater forms of progress in a very exciting way. with the top tier of fashion being largely associated with a house like prada, the collection is quiet in it’s influence, and that same silence in strength was well represented in the collections casting. a strong campaign from prada is always expected, and this season is no different. i am beyond thrilled for this collection, if even only based on the casting of all these new faces. prada leads, others follow. italian style is refined and subdued in a way that alters what has been associated with the fashion capital in the past. in my mind, long gone are the days of fashion shock factors and the need for gimmicks or unnecessary seeking of attention through use of humor. sophisticated and self assured, the collections seen in this seasons rankings for milan all represent the future of milan, as a fashion capital with a clear and valued view of style. prada closes and opens- end all, be all.

visit style.com for full collection coverage of the FW15 season
click image to view collection gallery

FALL COLLECTIONS • TOP FIVE LONDON

the british style society is one of privilege and secrecy. with it’s proximity to paris and milan, it’s interesting to see the ways that rebellion is etched in the style history of london. it’s also interesting to see the ways that formality of tailoring and that rebellion lead into an intersection today. there has been an interesting struggle with the fashion calendar, particularly with menswear and london continues to fight for it’s place as a priority on the fashion map, sandwiched between the enormous showing of new york fashion week and milan fashion week. all said, there is only good design that can truly make a difference, and the labels seem to be doing just fine in that arena. representing design and influence in a way that only the british can, this season’s showing was one of strength. from vibrance, to the new influences of minimalism which seem to live in every corner of the fashion globe- these were my favorites of the season from our friends across the pond.

ERDEM starting the season off with a bang, erdem added coloring to the fall season. really dope use of floral, and most impressive were the use of floral in an ombre’d technique that took the outerwear to a new level. started in london, the design label is among british style society’s favorites. there were mod silhouettes, a take on tweeds and even some silhouettes that were reminiscent of valentino. while I’m not a fan of print, or complicated design, i think the ways that the collection was produced, and the story that was told for the season was super interesting. each piece held it’s own, adding themselves into this overall powerful collection of bold new style. inspired by interior design and an installation seen at the frieze master art fair; you could definitely feel the interiors influence, in the use of florals which almost drew a likeness to wallpaper. containing an art collectors feel for the season. i think the collection makes a strong statement, and will do well amongst the international retail audience, in the luxury sector. thinking like an editor, the collection would be dope for use of bold color themed editorials as that seems to be the concept trend of choice for designers for fall 2015. strong casting, which represented diversity and there was a rich, decadent aesthetic with this collection which was inspiring for me, in a new way, that rethinks style intricacy. a collection i wouldn’t have normally selected, i have to be mindful of london’s own independent style direction. the erdem label is definitely mindful of representing such flavoring, from season to season, and there was a great deal of continuity for the season, in adding another collection to the house DNA.

GARETH PUGH (concepts are the strength of gareth pugh, and even in this way that lacks actual function. it’s almost as if thats the beauty of it though. pugh returns to the mindset that fashion shows are, well, just that- a show! often a dark aesthetic, pugh stayed true to himself as a designer with his runway show which opted out of his usual fashion film format. with clothes seeming more like armor, there was a confrontational edge from the collection, more so than usual. the expected use of fur and leather was there; which is a par to the brand’s identity. even as some of the clothes in the collection were less functional, to the untrained eye. there was a wearability about this collection, in contrast to seasons past. i really loved the unabashed approach to further of pugh’s aesthetic. but after a while, the desensitized approach, and style stubbornness wears your senses thin. your expectations become numbed and all the collections begin to look the same. i loved the beauty theme of the collection with the red painted faces of the models. but would like to see something a bit more expansive. i would love to see a dark attempt at evening wear; just to prove that pugh has more up his sleeve than flowing outerwear and black fur. it’s all dope, but to a certain degree- fashion is about versatility and his concepts seem to be at a stand still. still! that being said, his collections are among the most bold, and his vision and execution set him apart. would love to see versatility going into next season, and a play on delicacy and romanticism. pugh is definitely a visionary, and his collection archive shows a very specific vision, now it’s time to broaden that horizon. vision is not enough when it’s not expansive.

PAUL SMITH streamlined and sleek, the paul smith collections really draw back to classic british tailoring. a beautiful fall palette of heavy tones of blue and brown, with the expected use of black- the collection hosted flares of yellow and flushes of pink as well. i loved the reinterpretation of plaid, as well as the feminized approach to menswear. the collection fits well into the existing market, while the brand visage of paul smith was never once smeared. there is a way that interpretation of certain design influences begin to trickle and what’s exceptional of the paul smith label is their revisiting and reminders of what is classic. there is a standardization in the collections, in this timeless and effortless way. turtle necks and wider silhouettes were seen in the collection, enlarged coat pockets and large button shift dresses were seen through the collection, which hosted a pretty strict palette. while other labels have been opting for bold tones this fall, paul smith remained stern in it’s own vision of style. i love that most of collections. as anna wintour said of new york, and i am now relating to show season as a whole, and fashion as an entire industry. she mentioned that labels are really strong in their own identity, and that’s what makes them stand out most. i think a clear point of view is always the most attractive. we love labels with an established heritage, which refer back to their own archives instead of trends or concepts that others are producing. while not the most forward thinking, i think there is an important classicism in london that is needed, as far as representation in the united kingdom. paul smith is a label we can always count on to deliver such an aesthetic- for men and women.

MAC_0182JULIEN MACDONALD fashion is a new business these days, in that, a collection can debut one day and it’s on a celebrity’s back the very next day, across the world. so was the case of julien macdonald, and their PR team getting it on the back of country pop singer, taylor swift. it’s that kind of PR that allows for the concepts to take on greater form and influence even faster. the focus for julien macdonald was evening wear, in an almost sinister way. there are often dark overtones for fall collections, which I’m all for. the collection hosted a range of intricate designs that were almost embroidery influenced. the collection featured laser cut leather dresses, which paired well alongside other dresses in the collection, simply for their attention to detail. while the collection hosts strong concepts, those concepts were divided into looks, and only one strong concept was presented. through it’s strength, however, that one design theme was enough to carry through, in a way that will be instantly recognizable once this collection hits retail. there was a festish-eque quality to the designs, which was interesting. there were satin robes; and chokers, all in this very sensual way. there is a polish to the collection and i selected this season’s set as a top in london for it’s strength and cohesion though to the end, in design. i always look at collections and judge based on editorial value as well. this collection would be dope for a range of editorial themes. definitely looking forward to the ways that the glossies will style this collection up.

J.W. ANDERSON presented with a bit of 80’s style futurism, the J.W. anderson collection was among the best, conceptually out of london. while the designer’s spring collection seemingly went viral with the oversized brimmed hats he presented, this collection cuts away from such concepts, presenting something entirely free from the previous season. which i appreciate. the new wave collection interpretations reminded me of ghesquiere for balenciaga; the silhouettes were sleek and modern, but in a familiar way. i loved the use of color and leather in this collection. a true presentation of style from a specific viewpoint was seen here. i always love labels that interpret styles drastically different from season; so was the case of this collection. while there were more vibrant, almost trend driven pieces, i naturally gravitated towards the more minimal pieces. i loved the use of warm caramel tones in the collection, and felt the focus of accessories as well. everything from the earrings to the knee-high boots, it was all very well communicated as a new wave inspiration. belted waists ruled the collection, for silhouettes of noted visibility. a range of style was seen, and while new wave was the focus, it was done so in this very versatile way that can still be managed for today’s modern market. the cleanly designed dresses in single tones can cater to the minimal consumer, and the punches of color can go to everyone else. containing a varied number of concepts with use of print, to use of textiles; the collection packed a powerful punch as the most far spanning in london. it seemed to take the main attractions of each of my selections and combine them, in one oddly attractive collection.

visit style.com for full collection coverage of the FW15 season
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FALL COLLECTIONS • TOP FIVE NEW YORK

new york is the epitome of street style. while paris and london have their own respective scenes, the streets of new york are king. the designers that live in their studios have cultivated a perception of style that is truly american. vastly inspired by a range of influences from past and present. there is a hybrid aesthetic that we see on the runways, and the american style scene grows stronger and stronger with each year. other fashion capitals bring their own set of influences, but we as american’s are the most important. we brought with us the internet. america is the epicenter of exploitation and with our highly publicized, reality TV infested ideals, we create and break markets. these are the style collections that have communicated the clearest vision for style, as it relates to america. the home of mass appeal, commercialization and the multi-layered culture.

ONP_8362HOOD BY AIR of new york city influence and represntation is hood by air. a brewing fashion brand that has been long in the making of its own history. they started back in the early 2000’s, putting out these dope hats with lucite lettering. then they disbanded, from what i heard in new york city social circles. they somehow reformed, and started putting together more stronger concepts and full collections. just last year, they were awarded the LVMH young designers award. the award is the equivalent of the CFDA fashion fund put on by vogue, except LVMH is the leading fashion conglomerate in all of luxury. the awarding process of such funding for LVMH is new. an interesting choice winner, hood by air is a true defender of american culture, at the epicenter of new york city. blending transsexuality, with house and hip-hop culture, the collection truly fucks your mental with regard to style. there was an asexual componenet to the collection which is unseen in fashion. there is a radical approach to how HBA does all their shit. with the awarding of the LVMH young designers award, you feel a greater feel of luxury in textile. i love the collection for it’s representation of a slightly unrepresented piece of american culture and view point of strength. i love the idea of really going against the grain, and think there is a greater sense of validation within that framework of thinking when LVMH is shooting you an award. the contest has hailed some of the strongest design talent, the world over. of course, hood by air is a unique brand that i’ve been able to follow before all the style.com hype, back when it was a label existing within underground street culture, among the gays, and circling the community where the greatest of influences often live. with the conceptual designs hitting the runway, i am curious to see what is put into production. the use of fur in the collection made the greatest impact.

JASON WU sophisticated sensuality glided down the runways of new york fashion week, by way of jason wu. warm toned use of brown started the collection, as a progressive cool began to show close to the end. the collection featured sleek design, slim silhouettes and beautiful use of color, in a standard way that only further accentuated the clean lines of the collection. crown molded walls surrounded the runway as beautifully simple use of fur was seen throughout. at the close of the collection there was a focus on outwear as standalone pieces, which i really loved. fall is definitely all about the outerwear. there was an expectation fulfilled, in that, wu is developing his customer even further. adult, but in a way that is free and still maintaining of youth all the same, the collection is a true design progression. as featured in my pre-fall collection, the same sense of consistency and bankable deliverables is here in this collection. this was a wardrobe of classics, but seemingly re-interpreted in this way that made you look at them in a new way. while cut and color are key, there is an energy to the clothes and a clear vision of the wu woman was presented. with his expansion into creating advertising campaigns, i love the collections; but have yet to see a campaign that really allows the strengths of wu’s collections to be showcased. there’s a classic appeal in the clothes, that reads as boring in the ad campaigns. he normally features some of the most famous models in the world, and even makes a cameo himself. wondering who will be cast and where the campaign will be shot for this collection. the focus seemed to be upon, ‘sexy’. but not in an over the top way, it was subtle and gentle.

OSCAR DE LA RENTA the first collection following his passing, and the debut collection of his successor, peter copping. the ODLR fall collection was a return to quality and signified an understanding of house DNA. the collection was significantly more understated in a way that oscar himself had a flare for drama, but there is a refinement by way of youth that was seen here. a representation of polish and new perspective that was respectful. the usual use of vibrance in palette was visible, which honored the legacy and choice aesthetic of de la renta. there is an elegance that is felt from the brand, and i am very interested to see how the iconic label’s design archives will be re-interpreted. at last nights oscars, actress sienna miller debuted a dress from this collection, sending the de la renta name into the award season fashion stratosphere, for the first time. while there have been strong developments for the brand, this era we live revolves around publicity, and that is what peter copping is doing. the turn around time is remarkable, and is indicative of the care that was put into the decisions for copping to take the lead as a successor. copping, previously at the house of nina ricci, seems like a fitting choice. considering his work at ricci, the de la renta name is a great next footing for his design career. this collection was the tip of the iceberg, and there is much ground to be covered. i am excited to see the developments into next season, i am also excited to see how the marketing approach will be re-developed as well. quality was the name of the game, and copping shoots and scores.

PROENZA SCHOULER usually structured and tight, the fall collection from proenza schouler came with greater ease and softer lines. there was a greater focus on the beauty of details, seen in the trims and the use of sequin. it was among the most creative of collections show in new york city, for the season. the duality of proenza’s jack and lazaro is one of my favorites of american style. there is a truly artistic influence in the clothes. the creative process which resulted in the process for the two was more unintentional than season’s past, spoke lazaro. as the first winner’s of the coveted CFDA vogue fashion fund award, it’s as though proenza is a leader of new school fashion and design. following their entrance into fashion came other design hopefuls who have seemingly carried and continued the aesthetic that they represented here in america, first. so as the american fashion scene continues to thrive with new viable talent. proenza is definitely daddy. the collection was held in the old space where the whitney museum once was, here in new york city. and the artistic feel of the collection was appropriate for that very reason. in an almost against the grain attempt, the collection hosted a range of looks that were much more exposed. it felt almost spring in a sense, the way the collection was styled on the runway. but thinking with a stylist framework on, i would love to see the ways things could be layered. there was an artistic science to the collection. of course, technicality of textile is expected with a collection of luxury at the level of proenza. strong collection, overall and a collection i am excited to see shot in editorial. interestingly, there was little to no focus on accessories.

THE ROW mary-kate and ashley olsen named their high end brand, the row, with inspiration to saville row; london’s premiere block of sharply tailored men’s suits. the collection drips in androgyny, modernism and clean minimalism. while tailoring was the early focus of the brand, which started with one t-shirt; we see much more these days. the twins have grown up in the industry, beginning work as actresses at just nine months old. the taste which is represented in their collections is almost as well developed as their minds of business. the row is poised as one of the strongest american labels, all around. with entrance into the fragrance market last year, the accessories and womenswear from the twins has been hailed by the council of fashion designer’s of america, while industry heads nod with respect to the womenswear collection. the ways that style is reinterpreted by the row is so interesting, because it’s so forward thinking. it’s often times much more cognitive, in contrast to other labels. it’s about creating trends, not following them. about expanding ideas, not ahering to the pre-existing. there are rarely any pop colors, nor is there use of print. it’s very adult in a serious fashion way, and this collection was among their most beautiful. it’s almost as if the row is the american competitor of céline in paris. but even in that comparison, there is a different type of development at the row. it’s quiet, in this really exclusive and privileged way. distinct in palette, fluid by lines, luxe by design- dripping from the accessories and melting from every seam. the row is among my favorite labels, but some seasons are much more difficult for me to understand. this fall, they hit the nail on the head, providing competition for other minimal, new school labels while extending themselves to a realm of creativity that provides an offering of beauty that cannot be denied. hands up for the olsens!

visit style.com for full collection coverage of the FW15 season
click image to view collection gallery