FALL MENSWEAR: ANN DEMEULEMEESTER
by Jeremy Danté
PARIS – obsessed is what i was when i seen the jewel toned blue & ombre effect used by antwerp’s own ann dememulemeester. as one of those designers who basically doesn’t give a fuck about trend, i had expected a blacked out palette from ann & go the complete opposite- which was incredibly refreshing. inspired by poet, arthur rimbaud, this fall demeulemeester decided to change things up & go outside of her color comfort zone by creating something beautifully vibrant. last seasons menswear designs were inspired by the desert & this season, an entirely new direciton was taken. of course, ann created sophistication in her own way by again presenting that look of worn elegance that we’ve come to expect from her. as a designer of the iconic antwerp six, the theme of design experimentation that is so clearly translated was yet again seen. use of graphic prints, which was placed strategically to mirror the look of colored gradation was matched perfectly to the elongated design lines & stretched silhouettes of the fall collection. sleek & modern, the collection quickly departed from it’s usual black pieces & faded into a set of white pieces which were paired with the incredible ombre’d pieces that swam in & throughout the collection to it’s close.
the collections presented by demuelemeester always contain the usual leather pieces, boots & blazers- but this season it was a bit different. in palette the collection was already hit with white early on & soon following, waves of red were dipped into the collection- contrasting against the harsh blacks like lava. hot indeed, the collection palette then grew to a cool which was translated through a rich set of navy, which was followed by grey & then spun into a chic set of jewel toned blue. sharply tailored, the collection held a varied set of concepts in a range of tones that were, well, unexpected. i loved the collection so much for it’s use of color, especially considering how ann seemingly avoids over use of it. the inspiration of french poet, rimbaud almost added another dimension of lively hood. considering the poets literary beginnings during his teens, that same freshness was well translated into the clothes. models walked the runway with gelled hair matted & sticking about- which adds to the edge associated with the demeulemeester brand. likely one of the more intellectually inspired collections, i admire ann for her fearlessness in design & how well she is able to translate her design vision, each season. [source]