FALL MENSWEAR: DAMIR DOMA

by Jeremy Danté

PARIS – the globalization of fashion is well translated through each designers work & has been more in the past few seasons, over the past couple of years. whether it’s increased luxury demands in china or the incline in jobs of the fashion industry in milan- the presence of the international market is stronger than ever. damir doma is an interesting character, to say the least, amidst the flocks of fashion designers who circle in, out & around the realm of high fashion. of croatian & german nationality, doma cites his mother as most influential in his design career development. growing up in germany, where his mother had a clothing atelier, doma boasts a ravishing resume filed with studies in munich & berklin, followed by his graduating with manga cum laude at munich & berlin’s own l’ecole supérieure des arts et techniques de la mode- which in simpler terms is known as ESMOD, one of the top design education establishments in the world with 17 international fashion design & tailoring programs. after completion of his degree, doma went on to relocate to belgian fashion capital antwerp & worked alongside designers, dirk schönberger & raf simons. again, another designer that i gravitate to whom is based in antwerp; the same theme of experimentation that i seem to have grown quite accustomed to is present yet again. with menswear being launced by doma in the spring of 2008, followed by the launch of his womenwear in paris during the fall of 2010, damir is a designer well on the rise. coasting just along the right lines of the luxury market, damir is a name i’ve associated with high fashion but still also love for it’s under the radar appeal. with a hidden store location in the paris fashion district of marais, damir is also an official member of the fédération française de la couture- which basically certifies that you’re a fuckn boss on the design scene. overtime, i’ve come to appreciate damir’s love for flowing silhouettes, controlled palettes & internationally inspired direction. this season, he continues to represent that beautiful inspiration into the FW12 men’s fashion week season in paris, but with a few exciting new addition to his otherwise controlled concepts of design. though a minimalist myself, i more than appreicated this season’s opposition.

inspired by african, asian & slavic costumes; doma hit the ground running with this collection- presenting extravagent fur out the gate, for the collection’s first look. often thought to be uncluttered, minimalistically clean & less about flash, more about lines & construction- i did not expect the level of glamour we got from damir this season. i was every bit as obsessed as i am any other season with his simplified silhouettes as i was with his use of red prayer beads along with his extensive use of fur. i like when i can come to expect a certain direction from a designer & then they lean all the way left, creating a sense of unpredictability, pleasantly, through design. the inspiration of globalized costumes was very well translated & communicated by each look which was accented by stripes, rich tribal patterns,  dramatic capes & flowing coats. there were some looks that hinted that the familiar doma was still present but an even more dramatic presence, with added depth was seen this season. beyond impressed is what i was upon seeing the collection, look by look & then in my taking a step back to look at the collection as a whole. not that i had doubted prior, but there was a greater presence of story telling in this collection from damir doma, which is another aspect i look for in collections each season. there is a message here, a perspective & actual thought that is going into the clothes. overall, a strong vision with amazing execution. i cannot wait to see how this direction, if my hopes are fufilled, will be mirrored in damir’s women’s collection in a few weeks. beautiful collection, love the inspiration & how each region, though very diverse, were combined & meshed perfectly. [source]

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