COUTURE COLLECTIONS: GIAMBATTISTA VALLI
by Jeremy Danté
PARIS – when looking at couture collections, i take into complete consideration that the pieces are nothing, digitally, compared to what they are in person. so many designers, low budget brands & miscellaneous kiosks in shopping malls have completely slained the meaning, historical value & heritage of haute couture. in looking to identify what true couture is, each season, i’ve made more of a concious effort to stay away from design hype with no delivery, concepts with no consistency & just all around poor design. giambattista valli is one design name that i’ve come to look out for during show season, during ready-to-wear also but more particularly during couture season. there is a presence of design drama that labels are allowed to present during couture season, which i feel is rooted in the true meaning of what fashion is.
giambattista in particular is one interesting design entity, with an incredible life that seemingly revolves around couture. after getting an education during his childhood at the a vatican school in italy, valli began to sketch. these sketches soon followed valli’s comprehension of silhouette, which lead to him duplicating illustrations done by yves saint laurent. valli’s first job was working along side cecilia fanfani, doing production of couture shows in rome. as if that gig was ill enough, he then transitioned into public relations at roberto capucci which eventually led him to a promotion as design staff. during his time at capucci, valli has said that he began to gain a better understanding of the technical aspects of both color & volume, two aspects which have a powerful presence in his own design work. amidst his beginnings in fashion for many years, valli presented his first couture collection in 2011. astonishingly, by looking at his design work, it’s able to hang tough with some of the best. with a collaboration with retail giant, macy’s, waiting in the wings- valli’s star is definitely one that is one the rise to greater commercial success & global recognition. already a star on the high fashion circuit, valli’s latest couture collection rests in great design & consistent execution through greatness.
even more interestingly, this couture collection is said to be a recap of all the skills valli has learned during his entire development as a designer & through what he was taught during his time in the ateliers. staying true to the season of summer/spring 2012, the collection was light, romantic & hyper-feminine; all aspects i love of design. elegant use of lace added just the right touch of style induced seduction while the clothes never lacked sophistication. voluminous bows accented the collection’s sleek silhouettes as floral embroidery was seen along with modern use of leather. it was a powerful contrast of soft & strong, powerful & delicate. as the collection drew closer to a close, the lines in the collection became almost liquified, spilling onto the runway while lavish floral head pieces added that giambattista touch, ever so slightly. use of pattern was seen more vibrantly toward the final look, which was colored pink, fuschia & purple with printed petals. overall, the collection blossomed beatifiully onto the runway. the show sequence along with the choice techniques to represent couldn’t have been produced or executed any more perfectly. one of the best couture collections of this season, for sure. this collection signifies a new level being entered, a raising of the bar for valli, who is clearly on the brink of making fashion history. what’s so dope about giambattista as a designer is that his past experience & heavy involvment in fashion have all cosmically prepared him for the work he is doing. an inspiring artist, a true visionary of fashion- hands up for giambattista, he killed this. [source]