COUTURE COLLECTIONS: ELIE SAAB
by Jeremy Danté
PARIS – faultless glamour through refined sophistication is what we get, each season, from elie saab. a lebanese designer who you’ve seen worn on the back of iconic actresses like halle berry as well as beyoncé, celine dior, rihanna, mila kumis, catherine zeta jones & royal princesses, queens & duchesses from around the globe. as of may 2003, saab became an offical member of the chambre syndicale de la haute couture, showing his first couture collection just two months later in paris. launching his label at the age of 18, from his workshop in lebanon, saab is a self-trained designer with an undeniable eye for elegance & glamour. now based in paris, with workshops in milan as well as his native of lebanon; saab continues to produce consistent quality & some of the best gowns seen on the red carpet. much like other designers this couture season, florals proved to be the spring inspiration for the season.
incredibly detailed beading & lightweight gowns are saab’s specialty, as made visible yet again this season. whereas repetition might wear thin on my impressions of collections from season to season, i find a sense of wonder in saab’s work; often times looking for his signature silhouettes or how he has refined certain concepts, techniques or looks. always an immediate win in palette, this season’s collection hosted a range of milky tones that were introduced with a set of white, that set of white soon cooled to a set of iced teal. beautifully, the icey toned teals became heated when a masking of blushed tones entered the set, eventually cooling to a prelude of nudes. the nudes warmed to a set of yellows which then cooled again into a set of blue. the collection closed with it’s bridal finale look, which was worn by toni garrn in a fade out in the tone most often associated with ultra-femininity, pink. in the collection, i loved most the looks in white- considering how minimalist i am about everything. there’s something about in a woman in white that is so powerful to me. the sense of purity, refinement- fantasy. whether worn or lighter complexions, golden browns & darker skin tones- white radiates & those looks, i feel, are completely timeless. overall, the collection serves it’s purpose, though no new ground was broken.
though a familiar set of designs were seen here, what i love about elie saab’s collections is the amount of beauty held in the collection. even in saab’s ready-to-wear collections, there is extensive attention paid to what makes a woman look beautiful. amidst a transitory period as a digitally based writer, i have been looking to only represent the best of the best, leaving only room for what i love here on my site. you may have noticed that haute couture collections from mega iconic fashion houses like chanel, armani & jean paul gaultier were not reviewed this couture season. this, i assure you, was intentional. for the past few years i’ve been writing here, i have felt an obligation to contribute valued pieces of writing on the most important houses in fashion, internationally. after years of doing this, i feel it necessary to review only the greatest collections, in an effort to better refine my approach & to, well, save me some time. im not willing to fuck with anything less than dope, creatively. elie saab is one of those designers that is incredibly dedicated to the beauty i, myself- as a writer, am dedicated to represent. as i near my last review for the SS12 haute couture season, i wanted to mention that no collections are ignored nor forgotten any season, each collection is seen & thoughtfully placed here for your valuable eyes to see. collections that represent a dimension of outstanding creativity have greater value to me & as a writer, in the context of fashion, i feel it necessary to give these designers, producing these collections; more of the spotlight as often as possible. as you know, each season is a hit or miss- what’s horrible this season can be incredibly chic the next, so on & so fourth. im always looking for collections that showcase surreal & an almost impossible sense of beauty, which in turn feels absolutely possible. i feel that elie saab represents that, completely. it’s those designers that push us as creatives- whether stylists or celebrities, writers or magazine editors; to reach even further for not just the hottest thing, but for the most beautiful. it’s all expression & execution- saab killed it. [source]