SPRING MENSWEAR: RICHARD NICOLL
by Jeremy Danté
LONDON – much more of my personal style will definitely show thorugh in the selection of collections that i will be reviewing from this point onward. i had toyed with the idea of doing a top 10 for menswear, which i did for womenswear collections last season; but i feel the dialogue for menswear, being a man, is one that has to be had. in climactic order, this collection one ups the prior two. richard nicoll is one designer who is not afraid of innovation when concerning fashion design. at his graduate school runway show, dolce & gabbana purchased his entire collection, which began his destined career in the world of high fashion. now a budding label all his own, nicoll enters the SS13 season with a geometric approach to trend & a sleek aesthetic. awarded the british fashion council’s fashion forward award two years in a row in 2006 & 2007, richard has been noted for his framing of combined visions of romanticism & futurism. as the creative director of french womenswear label cerruti, nicoll is also a design director at fred perry. this partnership has seen him work as an instrumental figure in the 7th best selling capsule collection contracted by fast fashion retailer, top shop.
this season, vibrance in palette & those same sculptural lines remind us nicoll’s presence in the world of menswear. noted as an influential fashion figure for the new era of high fashion, this collection is one that immediately caught my attention. through richard’s thorough, high end approach- i find that many of his clothes are timeless. unmarked by unreasonable trend like other labels who use over the top concepts to standout, rather nicoll is one of subtle but sure moves in design. modeled after nicoll’s own stylistic preferences as a male working with & living of a design, inspriation for this collection is said to have been based on his own needs and wants. though i understand the need to showcase bold tones for the spring, i enjoyed the white/beige/cream tones in the collection. i was much more responsive to those aspects of subtlety & feel that they accented the collections clean slate of a direction perfectly. gradually, over time my own style has become much more heavily defined by this new age of minimalism which is increasingly visible in high fashion as well as throughout the approach of designers producing menswear. [source]