SPRING MENSWEAR: NEIL BARRETT
by Jeremy Danté
LONDON – just last week, i mentioned to a friend “im having a love affair with navy blue”. fast forward to men’s fashion week in paris & navy seems to have made a home for itself on the runways for the summer/spring 2013 season. as far as my own style evolution, i feel like i am at this stage which is reflected most accurately with the neil barrett spring collection, seen here. claiming he wanted some pieces to be “fucked up”, barrett hit the nail on the head stylistically this season. the collection was clean, masculine & fresh. from the varsity influenced bomber jackets to the shorts- there was a bit of a school boy feel to the collection. it was pedestrian in a sense, but a very chic pedestrian strolling along somewhere in paris. i have this affinity for cleanliness, being raised by a virgo. my attraction to sleek lines & structured silhouette was completely fulfilled throughout this collection.
i find it completely intriguing, the ways that menswear has evolved in the last five years. while americans are infamous for being much more casual than some of the other fashion capitals around the globe, i’ve experienced a greater attention to tailoring, silhouette & even use of color in the retail market when looking to purchase clothes. i remember back when i was in school, i struggled to find pants that fit- my waist was too tiny, legs did not fill out the pants, the length was never right. but as i grew, my style began to evolve. my clothes actually began to fit. i feel like every cool guy becomes a better man once becoming much more aware of style & how to present himself. i have to say, this season- with my site, the content i am selecting & the collections i am choosing to discuss; it’s all extremely personal to me. there is a greater sense of personalization in the clothes & styles that i respond to. much of my past content revolved around fashion as the business of style, but during show season- i like to focus more on the aspects of style being created by each designer. which allows me to then open the discussion of how these styles are being reflected or responded to by we, the people, as a culture- as a society.
in this collection, i love the range of fits that are represented. the form fitting, sharply tailored coats with the pants that leave enough slouch for sophistication but keep the seams close enough to the body to remind onlookers that, hey- dudes can dress too. from the subtlety of metallic pieces, to the clawed prints- the collection is careful to produce overly trendy pieces but fits right into the market & how it is carved to entice consumers by serving up what’s hot. all that said, trends are presented in this collection in such a way that it doesn’t feel as staged as other collections do. it’s soft enough to where it feels organic, natural & timeless. to me, there is nothing worse than a trend that has no staying power. overall, i love this collection from start to finish- from the coats, to the footwear & even with the grooming. neil barrett knocked it out of the park this season. a collection well executed. [source]