FALL COUTURE COLLECTIONS: GIVENCHY
by Jeremy Danté
PARIS – as america celebrated it’s independence, fashion continued to thrive in paris through showings of haute couture. of the few couture collections which show twice a year, givenchy by way of ricardo tisci is seemingly unstoppable. this season, i will say- i felt a little more ease with the concepts that were shown. for the past five seasons, i’ve really paid much more attention to couture in taking time to understand the value of the art form. ricardo tisci is a genius, without a doubt, but i wonder if he will soon just become rested in greatness. from inspiration of tropical birds, to samurai warriors- we’ve seen every unexpected form of inspiration with givenchy’s couture collections. it’s the kind of buzz you feel in fashion that is visible everywhere. with the rise of social media, the global discussion has seemingly shifted to fashion. more specifically, high fashion. throughout the course of couture week in paris, donatella versace, raf simons & the house of christian dior were highlighted as trending headlines on the internet.
among the most anticipated design collections every season, images of givenchy’s latest couture collection spilled onto the internet on the fashion forums as well as on twitter as editors allowed faithful fashion followers to grab a few first glimpses. at first glance, i was dissapointed. but then i started to see more detailed shots of the collection. intricacy to the tenth degree. inspired by modern day gypsies, ricardo tisci is always beautifully inspired by the most unique elements of style. while the collection lines were much more simplified in comparison to past seasons for couture at givenchy, the real magic is seen in the details. hand beading, embroidery- very couture. the use of leather, the palette- very givenchy. what’s particularly inspiring of the givenchy collections, which tisci has directed for the last seven years, is the amount of influence that is accompanied with them. i love that tisci really beats to his own drum & sets the bar higher, not only for fashion, but for himself in contrast to prior seasons, prior collections.
the concepts, looking at them much more simply- were distinct in representing the fall. each look was floor length as joan smalls’ look was a pair of pants & was paired with a dog. those types of oddities are what allow tisci to further standout from the rest of the fashion scene. all in all, the usual dark elements of givenchy were represented but for the most part, it’s expected. much like john galliano during his time at christian dior, toward the end he began to become boring. the theatricality, the design narrative associated with the clothes- it was all soo great, but so expected. that is the type of emotion i was left with in viewing this collection. hoping not to confuse complacency for masterful couture skill, the collection is one that allows the givenchy signature as represented by tisci to be felt. could it have been better? possibly. is it good? yes. was it the best? no. not to take anything away from the greatness of tisci’s work, but this collection didn’t resonate as powerfully as other givenchy collections have in the past.