Tag: womenswear

01 17 2012

PRE-FALL COLLECTIONS: PEDRO LOURENÇO

PARIS - there are very few moments during show season where my heart stops. pedro lourenço’s pre-fall collection was one of them. initially, the creative process of creating a post is a collective of different motions far beyond me just sitting here talking shit about the collection. in the evolution of my presence as a writer & more specifically, a fashion writer, i have gradually taken more & more time to sit & allow my thoughts to rise after seeing the collection. consciously, i kept this particular collection aside intending to close the pre-fall review segment on a high note. while i’ve gone to greater lengths to stray away from anything other than dope. the particularly amazing thing about pedro lourenço, he is a literally child prodigy. as one of my absolute favorites of the pre-fall season, lourenç0′s skill set has been many years in the making, beginning since he learned how to sew as a toddler. as the child of two parents whom are designers, lourenço impressively has been professionally designing since he was 12 years old & presented his first collection in 2003. having presented collections in his native of brazil, at sao paolo fashion week. his design talents have been lended to seven collections & in 2005, he established his own namesake label, pedro lourenço. at the age of 16 years old, pedro made the decision to abandon the runway to complete his studies in french to follow with studies in art history in paris. following that departure, pedro quickly re-emerged to the runway where he continues to gain praise as one of the best young designers in fashion today.

for the pre-fall season, now at the age of 21, lourenço reveals his latest collection. artfully inspired season after season, pedro is what designers of the new school are made of. call me biased, but young, new designers bring a sense of renewed perspective- they keep things fresh. over the past few seasons, lourenço’s modern design signature has remained sharp & vivid. this season, clean cut design lines again rule this lourenço collection as a milky toned palette is seen against vivid ombré’d pieces & iceberg prints. as a lover of design structure & someone who looks for a sense of deviation from the norm, i loved the collection for it’s concise approach to refined, reformed & modernized style. from beautiful mirror tinted sunglasses to the presence of layered textiles- there was an unending amount of amazing conceptual elements to this collection. use of faux fur & patent leather in place of using products that harm animals were seen, which showcases lourenço’s responsibility to the world around him. the palette of the collection rose with those ever so chic milky tones & then surged into a deep color set of navy, beige, brown & black- which i completely loved from start to finish. while use of color was seen, it wasn’t overwhelming, like some collections this pre-season & it actually complimented the clothes rather than distract from them. overall, the direction of the collection is strong & acts as a powerful message of design strength even in the pre-season. standing ovation to lourenço, i am completely inspired.  [source]

11 13 2011

SPRING COLLECTIONS, TOKYO: FACETASM

a combined runway show of men’s & womenswear, the SS12 collection presented by facestasm was another that showcased the forward approach of fashion that beams from japan. overall, this was a stunning collection or modern style with beautifully conceptualized aspects of beauty, through hair to make-up being seen. a whirlwind of floral prints, stripes & an array of silhouettes were presented as models walked the runway in bold toned footwear, chainsaws, sunglasses & larger than life hair. from the menswear pieces to the womenswear- there was a very clear vision that was flipped from masculine to feminine perfectly. one of my favorite collections of the spring season; it was unconventional, but still commercial enough to appeal to a global market. i loved the seemingly remixed business attire from the collection which seen blazers become vests & also loved the use of leather. most charming was the use of floral print & the chainsaws were completely unexpeceted. strong overall vision for this collection.

imagesource | wwd

11 13 2011

SPRING COLLECTIONS, TOKYO: ANRELAGE

deviating from spring’s bold toned trend, the SS12 collection presented by anrelage was an interesting one conceptually. models walked the runway with what appeared to be double faces. opening with a white washed palette, the collection seemed to sear through a palette of more depth that ended in a rift of print. for the most part, the collection played the field with a well developed balance of slightly experimental & commercially acceptable. the aspects of design experimentation that are weaved into the collection are seen in small flecks, while overall the direction is translated as clean & modern.

imagesource | wwd

10 30 2011

spring collections, tokyo: araisara

modernized & sleek, the SS12 araisara collection presented for japan fashion week was one of refined design. easily, i could see this collection fitting into the american market & even internationally in european regions like milan & paris. a strict palette with slight cameos of bold color were seen as the collection provided a commercialized sense of style for japanese consumers. i loved that the runway show was dark & seemingly drenched in laquer- it elevated the level of modernization that was reflected upon through design with the clothes. architecturally strong lines ruled the collection & progressive construction headlined. i loved the footwear in the collection & the way that color was lightly used. use of sheer textiles was noticeable & though nothing spectacular at first glance; this collection lives through details. strong collection, beautiful vision & progressive design.

imagesource | wwd

10 27 2011

spring collections, tokyo: johan ku

separated from the expected palette notes of the spring, the SS12 collection presented in the harajuku quest hall in tokyo is one of interesting concepts & imaginative knits. the johan ku collection presented relaxed silhouettes & what seemed to appear as undone knitwear. slim fit pants were presented alongside dual-silhouetted garments as a true challenge of design was confronted. incredibly forward thinking in creating an opposition with skirts/pants- definitely concepts that exist on the outer limits in this collection. while more controlled in some areas, there was a daring design approach in this collection, which i admire. strong vision & cohesive vision throughout; it’s almost as if they intended to push your thoughts on style but to do so ever so slightly. great collection of truly innovative design. love the knitwear, completely.

imagesource | wwd

10 25 2011

spring collections, tokyo: matohu

a lover of fluid lines, relaxed silhouettes & layering- i was sooo happy to see mathou’s SS12 collection adding yet another dimension of style to the already diverse region of japan, through fashion design. the collection tapped my heart in terms of design, as i tend to gravitate towards sleek lines, casual attitudes & all things beautifully effortless. i come from the school of thought that clothes should make you feel good, you put them on & you’re comforable but you never lack style. i got all of those elements from this collection while all the quintessential spring palette notes were represented. trendwise, i consider this sort of direction as classical modernism. while certain aspects allow you to understand that this is a new direction being projected into high fashion, but in the same sense- taking into consideration how clean these are by design; each has an air of timeless appeal. designers, hiroyuki horihata & makiko sekiguchi, whom have just opened a new store location on omotesando ave., are said to have always presented a fresh outlook on design & this collection seems to uphold that reputation.

imagesource | wwd

10 25 2011

spring collections, tokyo: gvgv

an interesting palette drew me into this collection as their seemed to be a set of neon pastels, if there ever were such a thing. classic 50′s references were seen throughout as models walked the runway in cat eyed shades with high waisted, form fitting skirts. as i was initially sucked in through incredible use of color, as the collection progressed i found that the headlining element of this collection was the beautiful use of print. fresh, green botanical prints danced their way through design all over the runway leading the collection to a close as elements of transparent textiles were seen in allowing a modern twist to be contrasted to the classical style referenced that inspired the collection. designed by mug, i love when designers are able to take something old & revamp it- which is a prime example of what happened here. fresh direction & ill execution- love.

imagesource | wwd

10 25 2011

spring collections, tokyo: kamishima chinami

held in midtown tokyo, the runway presentation for the spring collection by kamishima chinami was one of modern style & progressive execution. while not intending, by any means, to cite design duplication- but the collection was very in the lane of mugler & lanvin. the clean, simplified lines were very mugler while the heavy ornamentation of the collection’s accessories reminded me of lanvin. with a palette based heavily in orange, a huge trend for the spring, i loved the use of soft white neutrals in addition to some of the butterscotch toned color blocked designs on some of the collections coats. overall, this collection was surprisingly streamlined & commercially understandable, a rift from some of the more exerimental collections that have come out of japan. i was very inspired by this collection, given my own personal preference of style & love that in the first three collections i’ve reviewed already a wide ranged set of designs have been presented. clear vision, beautiful execution.

imagesource | wwd

10 25 2011

spring collections, tokyo: nozomi ishiguro

as the perfect follow-up runway review to everlasting sprout, nozomi ishiguro’s SS12 collection is the perfect example of the style experimentation of the japanese. splattered across the runway were transparent shawls, letters & strategically stained garments which seemed to add new dimension to my own perception of good design. what’s so dope about this collection is that it’s not put into a category, rather it is what fashion is & should be- expression. combined were a few menswear looks, though they were just as experimental. presented in tokyo’s olympic rugby stadium, the clothes hold a strong message. inspired by violent political reports & cream puffs- there is a balance between hard & soft. there’s almost a certain fragility about the sinister elements that bleed through each look in this collection. though not conventional, in comparison to what we are used to; these designs challenge the pre-established & seemingly break all the rules. strong vision & strong execution.

imagesource | wwd

10 25 2011

spring collections, tokyo: everlasting sprout

tokyo has been a fashion region that i have yet to explore in my blogging & with my unsettled outlook on the normal new york/london/milan/paris deal; i figured there is no better time than the present to shift gears a little.  the first collection of my first ten for tokyo’s spring season is everlasting sprout. designed by keith muramatsu, who is said to have a signature with knitwear, presented a lighthearted, almost mod set that was doused in polka-dots, color blocking & relaxed silhouettes. from the cute glasses to the curls that sat atop the heads of each model who was cast for the show, i thought the collection was a fitting fashion appetizer as many of japan’s designers border out of control & their perception on style is light years ahead of us, here in the united states. complex, diverse & undeniably intriguing; i liked this collection for it’s fun approach to the spring & thought it to be incredibly cute. inspiring variation of fit from look to look & casual style that is uniquely japanese.

imagesource | wwd

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