Tag: womenswear

spring collections twelve: acne, london

the acne label is one that i’ve always been on the fence about. the fact that their entrance into fashion happened on accident, also considering that they acne as a business has their hands in just about everything has made me question their ability to balance all of these things successfully. this season, i was pleased. the collection presented was filled with palette trends of blue, yellow, pink & blue while the designs themselves remained modern & clean. sleek lines were from start to finish in the collection, which is a usual direction for the label. elements of motocycle gear was seen in the collections pants & a number of their coats as other side lined elements found their way into the mix in the form of what appeared to be a rubberized glitter & a star-holed skirt. what i love about acne is their presence of ambiguity. like, you know they’re gonna present a collection but they play the field not pigeon holing themselves with bold style signatures like other labels. yeah it’s clean, hIp & modern- but even within that category there is so much that can be done on the design front. while i do have my doubts each season; im generally pleased with the level of style that is designed every time. color plays a large role in acne’s collection as well; regardless of the season, there is always a dope combination of pieces in a range of shades & tones- which allows a greater customer to be reached, in terms of sales. overall, the collection was strong & is sure to be a good set for the spring season. the pieces are effortlessly cool, easy to wear & are suitable for a range of age groups without making one or the other look stupid. silhouettes were relaxed, some more feminine while others masculine- a range of style capabilities was presented. from their use of floral prints to the way the clothes floated on the runway, if you’re the type of girl that doesn’t allow trends to define what you rock on any given day- this collection is for you. while i understand the need to represent solidarity for business reasons, i feel like the acne label has mastered playing the middle man- between corporation & style based cool. this collection is evidence of that & im betting on the fact that next season will follow closely in that same pattern of semi-non-conformist style. thecollection.

spring collections twelve: paul smith, london

im completely fascinated with powerful women. the whole perception that this is a man’s world is basically like that whole, ‘which came first the chicken or the egg’ question. raised my a single mother, i grew up seeing powerful women getting shit done & that has become engrained into, literally, everything i do. you see it here on the blog- the supermodels that dominate the magazine covers. it’s all connected in one way or another to powerful women. paul smith’s SS12 collection is always one that i look forward to because they straight boss up on the thought that women are stuck in gowns & glitter. the collection hosted a number of well tailored looks that captured my interest in masculine lines & also was conceptually on point in palette without being wild or experimental- they kept it classic, which is what i expect from the paul smith label. at the face of it, the collection was super simple, but for me- i was completely inspired by how they interpreted trend & loved the styling of the show. crisp whites, rich blues & a dozen belted waists blazed the runway. gowns & shit are nice but im always super inspired by designers that further blur the lines of style & gender. strong enough for a man, but gentle enough for a woman.

thecollection » style.com

spring collections twelve: marios schawb, london

more often than not, whenever i think of london- i think wild style. in the past couple of years, we’ve seen a large number of more experimental collections from london. in hopes of following in the foot steps of vivienne westwood, most london fashion designers have that knack for presenting the unusual & not being afraid to go for it. of the fashion capitals, london is the most slept on. even in scheduling, london has the least amount of time & is crammed between the juggernaut of new york & the epic proportions of milan. while i’ve clearly taken a step back to really think what is the best way to deliver my thoughts on runway collections, i’ve decided to scrap the idea of fashion season recaps for each of the thumbtacks on the fashion maps & only cover what i absolutely love.

of those collections in london, i loved marios schwab. the collection itself played well with other collections while quietly separating itself from the others. most collections in london, this season, opted for loud prints & really over extended in that aspect of trend interpretation. in new york, designers like chado ralph rucci & herve leger included metallics in their collection, which didn’t seem to be a highlight in new york. in london, there was a little more glitter on the runway & schwab interpreted that aspect beautifully & not jarringly. within that realm of minimal, clean & modern design- the SS12 marios schwab womenswear collection is a perfect example of what i prefer, stylistically. eventually, what i would like to do is cover only what im obsessed with & nothing else. for a while here on the blog i’ve tried to be all inclusive; dishing & researching everything from collection to ad campaign but in some respects not having anything to say, in terms of personal opinion when it came down to what counts- the clothes. the kind of woman i like is the kind of girl who doesn’t deal with bullshit. we all love glamour & sometimes being over the top- but i find that some of fashion’s greatest style moments have been heavily based in simplicity & ease. that is the same feel i got from this collection.

ruled by structured lines & the utmost interesting concepts, sleek modernism was all that i felt while looking at each piece; admiring everything from the cosmetics to the hemlines. one aspect i felt cheated on was the footwear; i felt the shoes on the models were too restricting & often distracted from the simplicity of the garments being that they were created in a hi-rise style. sheer textiles shielded us from being overwhelmed by the collections glittered moments while particularly close attention was paid to waist lines & necklines. the most inspiring pieces, granted im overly eager about the fall, was the collections set of coats. as i’ve mentioned previously geography plays a great hand in influencing fashion & london’s yearly forecasts allow them the ability to design & produce some of the illest coats. from the sleek dresses that kept it simple to the perforated textiles that only pulled you in closer- i loved the collection from start to finish for taking concepts we’ve seen & reintroducing them in fresh & innovative format.

thecollection » style.com

announcement: versace for H&M

collection images: emilio pucci, resort

lively & animalistic, the 2012 resort collection by emilio pucci represents all of the visual signatures i associate with the label. surprisingly wide ranged, the collection provides options for pre-season dress in pant looks, blazers, gowns & bathing suits. overall, the resort season is intended for vacation attire & the pucci label thrives in this aesthetic theme, even when not in the pre-season. overall, the collection is strong but i expect something of this capacity from a label like pucci, especially considering how beautifully every collection has been for the pucci label in the last four seasons. strong set of design.

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collection images: giambattista valli, resort

alive with color & modern in cut, the 2012 resort collection presented by giambattista valli hits the vein of italian fashion for the pre-season. overall, the collection is suitable for vacation wear, while gowns are seen adding a facet of versatility while still representing the formal signatures of design, which i often associate with the valli label. in this collection, i see a bit of vintage influence- considering that a number of the dresses seen are in a baby doll cut. i was hoping for something a bit more sophisticated but can still appreciate the opposition of what was produced for the off-season. solid overall.

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collection images: preen, resort

elusively modern, the preen 2012 resort collection dabbles into current trends with their use of yellow as the labels signature of print is well represented; in an effort to represent continuity from what we’ve seen on the runway. complimented by natural lighting in the collection set of images, the preen label was created by justin thornton & thea bregazzin in 1996. while still a developing label in the midst of fashion’s digital globalization; the collections of the preen label have been described as ‘cool sophistication’ & nothing rings more true to that descriptive than this collection. beautiful attention to silhouette, mindful use of color & sharp execution throughout. a wide range of looks with beautiful details & minimalist design accents.

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collection images: sophie theallet, resort

an aesthetic described as bohemian luxe has become the signature of the sophie theallet label; this direction is closely guarded & well executed season after season. presenting their 2012 resort collection, anais mali stars in the collections wide ranged set of stylish pieces ranging from gowns to pant suits. while the approach to the pre-season is noticeably more relaxed, the collection remains in it’s own lane of relaxed silhouettes of the bohemian aesthetic. while i would’ve liked to see much more developement in allowing the clothes to take on a greater feel of sophistication, i appreciate the pre-season effort.

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collection images: vionnet, resort

in their journey of reintroduction, the house of vionnet had taken an extended focus on accessories from 1988-1996, which followed after the house closed in 1952. revived in 2005, the house remains one of my favorites to see each season; especially considering the remarkably modern approach the house takes each season. while the past few show seasons have resulted in more classically driven design concepts, it seems as though an air of fluidity, which is more commonly seen in newer fashion brands, is replicated for the resort pre-season. i love the collections representation of silhouette & their stunning use of palette, more particularly referring to contrast. from orange & navy to yellow & black, the collection hosts a range of looks with relaxed lines- which allows the greater feel of cruise/resort, which is what the pre-season is all about.

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collection images: emanuel ungaro, resort

filled to the brim with floral prints, the emanuel ungaro label presents their 2012 resort collection & is seemingly hitting their design stride. established in 1973, originally as a menswear collection; ungaro the designer retired in 2005 & sold the label for a reported $84 million. in the path following his retirement in 2005, the ungaro label has faced bad press & a doubted presence in high fashion. continuing on a path set & seen on the runway last season in paris- there seems to be a greater amount of development in aesthetics & this could be a flourishing result in the retail market. while i feel as though more versatility could’ve been seen, i applaud the consistency from look to look. a palette heavily drenched in yellow, the collection is one of classically modern silhouettes & feminine chic. the injection of more earth tones might be an indication of what we’ll see during show season. im looking forward to seeing what designs they will present in paris in a few months.

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