menswear collections: mugler by nicola formichetti, fall
by Jeremy Danté
with a high powered publicity plug garnered through a connection to lady gaga as well as a digital release of a feature in V magazine’s discovery issue, the debut collection of thierry mugler’s menswear creatively directed by nicola formichetti is already one of the most talked about runway shows of 2011, let alone of paris men’s fashion week. with a show that was musically directed by lady gaga, a role that allowed her to debut new material from her upcoming album, nicola formichetti is in part to be thanked for the hard hitting visuals & out of controls costumes you’ve seen on gaga herself. the collection provided a great sense of excitement, tapping into the sub-culture of tattoos, showcasing models that walked the runway with faces that were fully inked. kept industrial-inspired with elements of a punk rock/goth aesthetic, the collection also dipped into the trends of the season with bold contrasts of orange in the form of suits, as well as on the thumbs of the collections gloves. though the designs are, for the most part simple, questionably creative elements in the form of exposed chests, veiled models & transparent pants allow the collection to take advantage of the labels all too fresh fashion spotlight. use of velvet & face masks were incorporated into the collection as well, giving us just enough while still leaving us wanting more. i will say that this collection is sure to set fire the men’s style publications like vogue hommes japan, which nicola formichetti also artistically directs. an impressive showing a truly fresh perspective that adds another unseen dimension to the world of menswear. formichetti oversees two design directors in his role at mugler, overseeing romain kremer, whom designed this menswear collection & also oversees sébastien peigné, who will be designing womenswear & has 10 years experience previously working at balenciaga. a powerful combination of unpent creativity in design, also fused to the powerhouse force of pop music known as lady gaga. strong direction, widly publicized debut & a straight shot to success. very excited to see what will follow for womenswear during FW11 showseason in paris as well. an inspiring new beginning for the mugler legacy.