menswear collections: kris van assche, fall

by Jeremy Danté

with a formal design education completed in antwerp from 1994-1998; kris van assche has earned a valid rank in the world of high fashion having worked as assistant to hedi slimane at yves saint laurent for the rive gauche homme collection which afforded him opportunities soon thereafter. through his affiliations with slimane, kris is the current artistic director of the incredibly stylish dior homme collections. here he presents his latest collection for his namesake label, kris van assche. while the collection palette is blandly black & almost met with a dull expectation upon arrival to the runway, the collection breaks barriers with structured design lines & clean silhouettes. initially, i looked at the collection with a sigh of hopelessness but when taking a second look found myself, even more impressed with van assche in his vision for this label. created with a debut that took place in 2005, the kris van assche collections have become well known for forward concepts with respectful nods to classic menswear. while the blacked out front end of the collection almost distracts from the construction while drowning details, i respect the decision to  allow the palette to remain restricted & controlled. i loved the use of neutrals towards the end of the collection & am beyond impressed by van assche’s reworking of a minmal aesthetic. simple, striking & powerfully creative concepts- the kris van assche label is one that i look for each season. strong direction, sleek design, chic aesthetic.

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