fall collections, new york: nicholas k.
by Jeremy Danté
the nicholas k. FW11 collection started on a lull of what appeared to be goth inspired looks with use of deep green velvet & black leather. in my knowledge of other designers that have displayed a similar aesthetic, i understood which direction the nicholas k. label was attempting to take but, for me, their skills fell short. i did enjoy the collections earthy palette but found some of the styling to be sloppily executed rather than coming off as a casual or effortlessly cool. i can fully appreciate a direction, if it it’s meant to be a little more rough & not as squeaky clean- but here i was more put off by the lack of skill that was seen in the construction. cameos of plaid were seen as the collection palette dimmed to a set of neutrals & questionable use of ruffles got me even more confused towards the end of the collection. the use of plaid & attempt to deconstruct what other labels tailor cleanly reminded vivienne westwood; however, some of the other looks presented a more polished designs which through off my sense of direction when looking at the collection, as a story of style. i admire the attempt but was not impressed, even this early into show season. i would like to see more creative development from this label, a more refined direction going forward into next season. fine tuning methods of construction & design will allow the collections overall statement to be much more powerful- even if intended as a deconstruction of an already existing fashion form or an opposition of commercial beauty. i understand the vision, however, i don’t agree with the execution.