fall collections, new york: yigal azrouël

structured style & progressive concepts were presented by the yigal azrouël collection in new york for the FW11 season. irresistably modernized designs were presented with a disctinct style that has become much more developed, creatively, at a rapid pace. cobalt blue, kelly green, sunshined yellow & playful pinks were seen in the collection against black & white designs that provided a greater feel of structure & defined direction. i love the simplicity found with the yigal azrouël collections & am always eager to see what is presented on the runway. a wide range collection was created this season; complete with gowns & blazers alike, which highlighted a masculine/feminine feel. overall, i am pleased with what was presented. minimal style is combined wtih progressive design while the pieces aren’t forcefully fashionable-natural style shines through.

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runway video: proenza schouler fall collection

fall collections, new york: rodarte

as one of the most talked about & visually groundbreaking labels to come out of new york in the last five years, the mulleavy sisters present the FW11 rodarte collection. as expected, imaginative concepts were presented as wheat field printed satin gown blew down the runway starting with an opening look worn by caroline trentini. statement coats were given added sophistication as the palette consisted of soft neutral shades that transformed to a bold finale set of gowns. intricate cuts & geometric construction was seen while details of crocheted elements were also adapted to the fall collection. much like what we seen from preen, just in a different perception, influence of american quilting was seen on the collection pieces & was interlaced perfectly. near the close of the collection, i love the use of navy & though a greater feel of country elements was created, soft & feminine quality is seen as well. overall, the rodarte label is a leader of creativity in design, in new york, as well as internationally. they’ve presented yet another dimension of fashion that was not expected & is greatly inspiring.

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fall collections, new york: marc by marc jacobs

warm earth tones ruled the runway this season by way of marc jacobs for his moderately priced, marc by marc jacobs collection. a combined runway show of both menswear & womenswear was seen, though womenswear took the main stage. horizontal stripes were seen alongside seventies inspired silhouettes, which marc seems to love. while the collection seen here is much more relaxed & not as strict as what was seen for the marc jacobs main line, a consistent vision was presented both creatively & sharply. bold shots of green, fuschia & slight use of yellow were seen in the collection palette that contrasted well with the brown base of the collection. a lot of classic pieces are seen in the collection in the form of capes, coats, shades & even looks that capitalize on feminine & masculine style concepts. combined classics & trend created a solid fall collection overall.

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fall collections, new york: hervé léger

the max azria design empire is split into a series of collections, one of their high end collections being hervé léger. hervé léger bas become a staple in fashion, known for their infamous bandage dress style. this season, we see the concept of the bandage style almost deteriorating in chic manner. bandage straps were minimally added to the collections dresses, allowing developed signatures to be introduced while still providing enough creative reinterpretation for the label to push the limit for yet another season. while some elements of the collection were unexpectedly industrial through details, i applaud the hervé léger team for being able to consistently raise the bar for themselves each season. transitional of the seasons without limitation are seen in the use of black, neutral & slight shades of orange this season. overall, great direction & solid execution.

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fall collections, new york: dennis basso

lavish fur designs have become synonymous with the dennis basso label. this season that signature was greatly & clearly translated on the runways of new york fashion week. in thoughtful sequence the fur went from soft neutral, to fudge brown, cooled to crisp charcoal & hardened at the close with a black palette note. while many may describe the basso label as a design one note, one this is for sure- no one does fur like dennis basso. the new york based label is the gold standard of how to do fur, when fur is done right. i love the collection & admire the execution seen in direction. thoughtful elements & chic design throughout.

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fall collections, new york: donna karan

stoned greys ruled the FW11 color palette of donna karan. models walked the runway with a soft powder pink lip & more sophistication was felt this season with a familiar style direction. with the high bunned hairstyles, signature donna karan drapping, sleeved dresses & use of fur the collection was more lanvin by albert elbaz than donna karan. brown tones were introduced into the collection after the greys cooled & though beautiful, i could not distract myself from the hard hitting comparisons of lanvin. the donna karan label is one i respect greatly & more often than not, i expect sophistication & represented signatures to set them apart from other new york based designers. as a leading designer in the brand, i am a bit dissapointed that many of these concepts were seen in paris, on the runway, from another fashion house. no doubt a beautiful campaign will be shot & the collection will sell, given it’s undeniable beauty. creatively, the collection is unoriginal.

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