fall collections, new york: thesken’s theory
by Jeremy Danté
as we sat & waited for olivier theysken’s to make a return to fashion design since departing the house of nina ricci, his latest endeavor is his involvement with theory, a japanese owned new york city based retailer. of notorious talent & vision, it seems as though olivier is playing by the rules with this collections, his designs are noticeably restrained. dramatic coats with killer silhouettes were seen along classic chunky knits as the models walked the runway with red lips & matted hair. use of cordory, suede & slight use of printed textiles allowed the collection to be more clearly defined for a commercial retail audience. a dark palette of sleek style was seen but i know that olivier can create something more imaginative. i view his work with theory as a refoundation of style, at the root. a clear vision is translated & though i expect more, the collection is suitable for a mass market & provides chic options for wardrobe fillers rather than setting trends. i would love to see olivier breakthrough creatively & embark on creating a namesake label. overall, strong collection & stylish but would like to see more creative push.
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