fall collections, london: acne

with the rapid formation of as an emerging lifestyle brand; i’ve begun to look out for the acne collection, waiting with the expectation to see something great. this season, i loved the simple & stylish approach to relaxed style. with no inclusion of wild prints or complicated concepts, the acne label further develops their signature as a growing fashion authority in creating solid statements of style. relaxed design lines were seen with the collections designs of jump suits, long-length skirts & vests. in line with trends of the season, metallics were used as relaxed tops & even leather overalls were presented. one of my favorite elements of the collection were the use of pale pinks; i loved the leather skirts & powder puff pink blazers were stunning when combined with the sleeveless leather jacket seen in runway look 11. rusted yellow was seen as a visible waistline was used as a hem within the collection, being matched to a turtle neck- another trend of the FW11 season. an array of beautiful tones were revealed in the collection as the palette eventually halted at a series of black looks which closed the show. while not forcibly fashionable, a relaxed approach is seen in the way the clothes fit & the way the looks are presented. i love the collection for it’s mindful approach to style. though i could have used less metallics & less baby blue- i appreciate the direction.

imagesource | vogue.uk

fall collections, london: jonathan saunders

the jonathan saunders label is known for their use of prints & this season, i had first thought that a new direction would be taken. to my surprise the opening sequence was noticeably more minimal- strict lines & glimpses of color were seen. but as the collection progressed saunder & his signature prints slowly started to appear, eventually peaking to an explosion of silk screen prints combined with sheer textiles. i loved the bold tones & wildly creative use of print- it was complex & still sophisticated. the collection palette was filled with  wide range of color, most beautiful was the collections use print, more specifically with the leaf print that was used. at the close of the collection, slight use of metallics were seen as the silhouettes remained classically stylish & for the most part, conservative. a strong direction is felt throughout & i love the balance of classic & modernized styles. great color blocking was seen & beautifully bold designs of contrast. saunders made his return to london fashion week in 2010.

imagesource | vogue.uk

fall collections, london: house of holland

kitschy, retro prints were seen from the FW11 house of holland collection, this season, at london fashion week. dulled yellows, punched up pinks, textured twill & patchwork prints were seen in the collection, allowing greater cohesion to be represented. while the style direction of the collection isn’t one of my own taste, i do recognize the strength in execution. well developed & thoughtful details down to the buttons. henry holland developed a reputation for his slogan t-shirts that referenced kate moss & soon spun into the grips of high fashion in creating his own collections for the runway. the holland label has also become famous for their representation of london female fashion. fearless, bold & thoughtful collection this season.

imagesource | vogue.uk

fall collections, london: jaeger london

labels in london come with a rich heritage & spare no expense on capitalizing on that history. the jaeger london label was established in 1884 & has become renowned for innovative & contemporary design in the process. that reputation of modernized sophistication is greatly maintained this season with the jager FW11 collection. structured coats & tones of orange, yellow & brown danced in & throughout the collection palette adding a larger, more greatly associated palette for fall fashion. relaxed fit trousers were seen alongside architecturally chic coats that were the headlining element of the collection. with little to no distraction from print or wild style, the jaeger london label pronounces the importance & emphasized factor of the ‘less is more’ movement. all that was seen within the collection was beautiful construction & meticulously clean design lines. in combination with the bold tones that were seen in the collection palette- it’s a perfect balance of minimal & flashy. beautiful use of fur, twill, wool & leather were used on the collections coats as jourdan dunn, tao okamoto & nyasha matonhodze were seen outfitted in the chic womenswear pieces. slight use of pink, purple & a bold teal were seen within the set & overall, im thrilled for this collection. i have had my eye on the jaeger london brand & applaud there evolution within the last five years. from campaign direction to runway cast & down to the ever important design direction each season- creative director, stuart stockdale is doing an outstanding job. one of my favorites from london, thus far. beautifully developed & progressively inspired.

imagesource | vogue.uk

fall collections, london: j.w. anderson

from the abstract designs of louise gray to more minimal approaches to style, the J.W. anderson FW11 collection thrives in that respect. angora sweaters allowed a 90’s feel to resonate for me, immediately. with the addition of long length skirts, that theme continued. as motorcycle style leather coats were seen, the collection began to take more of a masculine design direction, which i loved. beautifully intense prints were seen in the next phase of the collection as shots of yellow, orange & red leaked into the collection palette. use of fur & modernized textile matches were made on the collections dual-textile sleeved coats. overall, a strong direction is felt & i love the calming effect felt through these designs, the greater air of relaxation within the collection. in london, more often than not, designers take it to that next level, imaginatively create crazy things; as a minimalist, i can always appreciate chaos in order to become more rested in control & structure. love this set for it’s simple & striking style.

imagesource | vogue.uk

fall collections, london: louise gray

intricate & innovative through detail the FW11 louise gray collection was revealed for london fashion week in complete bold fashion. complex styling & models with geometric tiled faces walked the runway show which can only be described as lego chic. balloons were strapped to some of the model’s heads allowing a more outlandish direction to be felt; i sensed a direct correlation to abstract art when looking at the pieces. it was almost as if the geometric tiling methods were zoomed patterns & pigments. while the collection may seem chaotic, at first glance, the pieces are well constructed & would prove to be powerful even singularly, combined with more minimally conceptualized pieces. furthermore, it’s interesting & an unexpected direction that is no less inspired than many of the more commercially beautiful collections of show season. based in london, gray herself is a master of embroidery & stitching techniques with a masters from central saint martins. interestingly enough, an artist from california, also named louise gray, was known for her oil paintings & was an impressionist. as california based gray passed away at 90 years old in 2000; in finding this information through my own research, no word on what louise gray, of london, was inspired by this season. this season, gray continues to pronounce her knack for outrageous & bold concepts. a thoughtful collection with solid execution. with an intent to create modern folk details, the collection taps into an entire sector of fashion design that hasn’t yet been fully explored. truly inspiring through technique, concept & palette.

imagesource | vogue.uk