fall collezioni, milan: fendi

as a continuation of what they’ve been producing, the fendi FW11 collection showcases the same earth toned palette contrasted to bold tones of yellow, orange, green & blue. chic use of fall textiles of including wool, leather & yes, use of fur were seen in the collection which was expectantly strong. designed by karl lagerfeld & silvia venturini fendi, the collection plays with the concept of developed signatures that have worked for the brand in the past. beautiful styling of the runway show allowed the collection to be clearly translated as the essence of italian style was felt. sunglasseses, beautifully constructed coats & color contrasts were headlining elements seen from the house of fendi this season. as the face of the fendi brand for nearly four seasons in a row, anja rubik opened & closed the show. great collection with strong designs, an excellent addition for fall.

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runway video: D&G fall collezioni, milan

fall collezioni, milan: francesco scognamiglio

with a clear direction of more minimal concepts, im still in the process of trying to feel the francesco scognamiglio design signatures out. while glamour is at the forefront of each collection presented, this season was no different. i loved the pure palette of soft neutrals & immaculate whites for the winter; with everyone doing bold colored looks this season, my eyes were immediately drawn to that form of restraint. lavish use of fur was added to dramatized construction of the collections coat lapels while neck lines were interestingly reinterpreted a number of times. one aspect i’ve come to expect from the scognamiglio collections is details- this collection was rooted in simplicity & intricate through details. ruffles, stunning crystalized thigh high boots were two outstanding elements that really brought the glam factor home for me. as the collection came to a close black designs were seen as shots of red completed the show. overall, the collection is a true representation of what i define as italian fashion; thought classical in some respects, a hard hitting form of chic progression is felt being pushed through glances of sophistication & seduction. the collection, though restrained at first glance, is powerful in it’s approach to details. i love this collection, completely, if even for the details alone.   

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runway video: prada fall collezioni, milan

fall collezioni, milan: alberta ferretti

in mirroring the bold palettes we’ve seen scattered amongst other collections in new york & london, also strongly represented at the house of gucci; the FW11 collection by alberta ferretti is vibrant to say the least. in adapting the same liquified design details from christopher kane in london, the collection channels more of a sixties feel with beautiful use of sheer textiles, beautifully patterned coats & rich detailed beading. use of satin was included beautifully while the collections bold palette faded to a simmer of soft greys, oranges, black, neutral & blue. seemingly more mature than what is presented for ferretti’s sister collection, sophistication is felt in each piece & a clear direction is seen. i would’ve liked to see much more development around concepts; though beautiful all the concepts don’t balance well within the same collection. that said, the few pieces that are more elegant than casual are done exceptionally well & are classically styled, detailed & designed.

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fall collezioni, milan: n°21 by alessandro dell’acqua

debuting his first  prêt-à-porter collection in 1996, alessandro dell’acqua has made a name for himself in the world of fashion through his designs from his namesake label . in june 2009, it was announced via press release that the summer/spring collection by the dell’acqua label was being produced without alessandro’s approval & he reportedly lost the rights to his name. now nameless, the creative entity known as dell’acqua has moved on & now designs the N°21 collections. presented for the FW11 season, we see a refined set of soft neutral toned looks that drew  upon sleek lines & classic styles. though nothing truly groundbreaking is seen here, i expect that dell’acqua’s return to prominence will be like waking sleeping beauty. here the N°21 label shows promises & makes gradual progress establishing itself as a new brand with new signatures.

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