runway video: thierry mugler fall prêt-à-porter, paris

fall prêt-à-porter, paris: felipe oliveira baptista

as the newly crowned artistic director of lacoste, felipe oliveira baptista presents his namesake collection before debuting his new collection for lacoste. i loved the collection for it’s chic approach to fall & stylish translation of womenswear. deep military greens were seen from the first look in the collection, showcasing a woman covered in a long length structural coat with boots & pants. sheer tops, well comstructed leather coats & fur capped sleeves followed before slices of color were seen on the collections collars & cuffs. bouts of navy were seen as exotic engineered prints accented the collections black looks beautifully. the stunning show of skill in construction continued as the collection presented more statement coats with voluminous lapels, exaggerated collars & layered simulation. the sheer tops from the beginning of the collection were cohesively connected to the collections design additions of sheer textiles that were added to the collections blazers, which added feminine overtones to a more masculine concept. satin gowns were fused with fur collars as pieces in angora, leather & wool brought the collection to a halt with the last few looks, in complete black. overall, it’s style & a modern interpretation of design & femininity. im very excited to see that felipe is taking the opportunity to flex more of his own creativity through his namesake collection, while simultaneously direction at lacoste. im more than thrilled to see what he presents for the french sportswear label as well. a strong direction presented this season & beautiful set of looks. put felipe on your design radar.

imagesource | vogue.fr

fall prêt-à-porter, paris: dries van noten

always a standout during show season, the dries van noten label takes things we know & recreates them in ways we wouldn’t have thought possible. this season, warm tones are seen with a wide range of stringed prints as layering takes the main stage for the collections runway. textured coats, fur lined & stylish as fuck- the collection covers all necessary fashion bases needed for the winter & fall season. shades & leather bags adorned the arms & faces of the models while liquified prints were seen on the collections coats. wide legged trousers & ankle boots were seen added to a range of the collections looks as geometric, printed colored blocking was seen & i loved the collections set of statement coats most. spectacular use of print with slight inflections of metallic were seen throughout, allowing trends to be represented but through different interpretation. a strong collection of organized chaos & design innovation. classical in areas needed & modern where desired. the van noten label presented style with their own creative signature. well produced vision & cohesive, even amidst a mixture of styles.

imagesource | vogue.fr

fall prêt-à-porter, paris: damir doma

as one of the most exciting new designers of modern fashion, damir doma presents a thrilling FW11 collection on the runways of paris fashion week. dark lips seem to be the cosmetic inspiration for most of the collections that have showed this season in paris, thus far. nylon caps were added to each of the models heads, allowing our perceptions to be put into question. what i love about the doma collections are the concepts- it’s stylish but very simple; almost as if all we knew of fashion was stripped bare, leaving only a skeleton of a silhouette that proves to be undeniably alluring. a wide range of silhouettes were seen; wide legged trousers along with more sleek looks were presented along with dramatic coats & use of fur. as the beginning of the show sequence showcased a range of black looks, the message of trend defiance was felt & still, no artistic value was ignored & no opportunity of expression was left untouched. sleek blazers were seen alongside crisp white dress shirts that channeled masculine edge on the female models. sparks of yellow began to flutter into the collection palette as grey fur coats & speckled print kicked the black palette to the backseat. slight use of metallics & bold thrusts of yellow bum rushed the runway, as high collars & turtle necks were added to the already complex set of fashion artistry. salmon pink was seen as design lines became elongated & in other areas voluminous. a combination of tribal & galactic style sensibility was injected into the collections use of accessories as leather, leggings & reinterpreted necklines stunned us through to the end. the damir doma aesthetic is a culmination of varied style sources; a clear translation of high end fashion as art while an incredibly large amount of creativity is seen every season. love, love, love- modern, chic & stylish.

imagesource | vogue.fr

fall prêt-à-porter, paris: hussein chalayan

known for his lavish gowns & extraordinary approach to fashion design, hussein chalayan presents his FW11 ready-to-wear collection for paris fashion week. shot against a darkened studio backdrop with fog, the collection is one of sleek structure & forward fashion concepts. relaxed fit blazers with exaggerated lapels & plunging necklines allow the collection to take a strong style direction instantly, with the first look. as a graduate of centrail saint martins college of art & design in london, chalayan has been working in fashion since the mid-90’s; working with artist björk & collecting creative accolades along the way. beautifully layered drapping & relaxed silhouettes were the headlining element of this collection, the palette was kept simple with hints of grey, eggshell & a bit of print alongside navy & black. the collection is one of clean & modern aesthetic. i look forward to see more ready to wear collections from chalayan. promising collection with a cohesive vision from start to finish.    

imagesource | vogue.fr

fall prêt-à-porter, paris: anne valérie hash

anne valérie hash presents a lavish, sexy chic collection of casual glamour & effortless style. with a developed knowledge of design, hash has gained experience in fashion working for major labels nina ricci, chloé & chanel in the past. after graduating from the chambre syndicale de la couture parisienne in 1995, hash debuted her first collection for her namesake label in 2001. with collections of couture & children’s already up & running, the ready-to-wear collection seen here is inspired & authentically beautiful. whether a single piece or as whole looks, the collection serves up it’s share of seductive style without forcing you one way or the other. from casual draping to the rich palette of soft neutrals, black & navy with slight use of metallic undertones, the collection is timeless & still modern with it’s style direction. i loved the layering of each piece & admire the construction, as well as the tailoring seen for each look. chic ankle boots were donned by the models, who walked the runway with a dark purple lip. stunning design is seen as i find myself even more inspired after viewing this collection. as an early high note for the tail end of the show season, this is already one of the best in paris this season. every look is dope.

imagesource | vogue.fr

fall prêt-à-porter, paris: hakaan

the FW11 hakaan collection, designed by hakaan yildirim was presented in paris yesterday & interesting variations are seen. while i loved the hakaan SS11 collection- it’s white, structured, minimalistic approach- this season we see a bit more grim. last season channeled a bit of a galactic theme while models walked the runway with lightly jeweled faces. this season was an opposition of that direction, dark designs were seen though the same structure & clean design was not forgotten. models walked the runway with intense red statement lips & outside of the bold lip, faces were made up to look natural. shots of red, white, grey, navy & neutral added depth to the predominantly dark set & overall, i liked what was presented. as a rapidly rising force in fashion, hakaan has already established ties to carine roitfeld, formed editor-in-chief or french vogue & supermodel icon, kate moss. all this & mert alas, one half of the internationally noted photography duo mert + marcus, is the hakaan label artistic director. a superb follow up to last season’s spectacular collection, in my opinion. as a combination of industry head nods & stunning design, the hakaan label is one of great importance in this new era of fashion design. get familiar.

imagesource | vogue.fr