fall prêt-à-porter, paris: mugler by formichetti
by Jeremy Danté
nicola formichetti & sébastien peigné revealed their FW11 womenswear collection for the house of thierry mugler in paris yesterday & it was quite the sight to see. twitter feeds buzzed, while conversations were electrified as anna wintour sat front row & lady gaga smoked cigarettes on the cat walk. overall, the show was a success- i was impressed by the lively characters each of the models took on from look to look, one of pop’s heaviest hitters closed the show & it got everyone talking. fashion is about a reaction & that they got with this collection, which showcased a bit of 90’s reinvention with a bit of new age minimalism. while the show was entertaining, the exaggerated movements of the models distracted from the clothes- leaving us as a fashion audience to unavoidably think of one thing- gaga. nicola formichetti, who is the artistic director of the mugler label, is also the stylist of lady gaga & while i had hoped to see something groundbreaking & unseen- i found nothing of the sort within this collection. yes, you’re entertained when you see the show; but when still shots of the runway images are released models appear without poise, in akward positions & overall, you’re not looking at the clothes because all you can think is, “why is she making that face?”. i applaud the intent of formichetti & the mugler brand to reinvent that same type of runway show from the 90’s but in contrast to the body of design work seen- im not impressed. the mugler name is overshadowed by the controversy that lives in the form of lady gaga; overexposure & all. the designs presented differ very little from what lady gaga would wear in her stage shows & in concern of functionality- how wearable are these pieces? a solid direction but little to no design quality was created outside of things we’ve already seen. i hope to see much more creative development outside of lady gaga’s shadow next season. if you missed the show, be sure to catch the previous post for video.