fall prêt-à-porter, paris: christian dior

as news of galliano’s shocking anti-semetic remarks have been heard ’round the world- all eyes were no doubt on the house of christian dior this season, even more than usual. as galliano’s highly publicized exit from the house has made headlines, heads turn & heads shake- the dior collection remains perfectly in place. as the last collection designed by john galliano, whom was hired at dior in 1996 with a co-sign by anna wintour, the theatricality we’ve come to expect from dior may be up for a bit of a shift. this season, a powerful dark palette was presented, as karlie kloss opened the show in a show stopping cape, large brimmed hat, leather knee-high boots & a leather coat. the vision of galliano has become so iconically associated with the house of christian dior & it will definitely be a spectacle once his position is filled. chic use of fur was seen as dramatic design lines accented the height of each model, adorned in vintage inspired jewelry & details, a known favorite of galliano. before the show was to begin, a speech was given allowing dior to make a public statement about the value they feel still exists in the house & is kept in tact with the removal of john galliano. with all of the media insanity, no front row photos or backstage access was granted in an attempt to maintain order from the already heavily crazed circumstance. use of snakeskin, tweed & ruffles were seen throughout the collection & proved once more that galliano was a colorful character full of life & creativity, during his time at dior. as galliano still has his own namesake collection to fall back on, that show was cancelled. due to his anti-semetic remarks, galliano can face up to six months in prison & will go to trial. overall, the collection remains alive thanks to the work of dior’s atelier, whom did the final bow at the end of the show.   

imagesource | vogue.fr

fall prêt-à-porter, paris: nina ricci

based in a floral themed collection, which tributes the nina ricci brand hertiage; peter copping presents his latest nina ricci collection on the runways of paris fashion week. soft & feminine, the collection is nothing spectacular, despite historical references thoughtfully included. everytime i look at the nina ricci collection, from season to season, i find myself coming away more & more disappointing. while an understanding of signatures, copping has been afforded a great opportunity but many of the designs feel more lifeless than beautiful. perhaps the ricci label has not yet been able to escape the shadow that was cast upon them, following the termination of olivier theyskens. when i compare these collections to what theyskens was creating- it’s almost as fair as comparing a beginning to someone advanced. there is no comparison & every time i see another collection, i can’t help but think of what could’ve been. blue, pink, black & sheer- fall by nina ricci.  

imagesource | vogue.fr

fall prêt-à-porter, paris: roland mouret

sophisticated & sleek, the roland mouret collections are always a sight to see. this season, unexpected contrasts of green, yellow & blue are seen as perfectly alongside the collections soothing neutrals & cool stoned tones. i loved the collections coats which presented beautiful construction & the right amount of structure to the otherwise fluid lines seen through the collections dresses & other assorted styles. use of fur added an additional notch of lavish overtones & overall, the collection was strong as a follow-up to last season. mouret seems to really understands his audience; there is an effortless way about his collections. while timeless style is seen, slight modernization allows the collection to move forward as contemporary forms of classic glamour while sophistication headlines each & every season. wide ranged palette with beautiful style.  

imagesource | vogue.fr

fall prêt-à-porter, paris: rick owens

rick owens presents a noticeably more fitted collection this season at paris fashion week. creating a set of looks with fitted hoods, sharp tailoring & dangerously chic silhouettes. owens has described this collection as a modern day take on what cristobal balenciaga would be designing, if he was still designing today- this & still, owens does not ditch his own signature aesthetic. with expected use of sleek leather & beautiful incorporations of capes in neutral & grey were seen. rick is one designer i greatly admire- he knows what works & gives his clientele what they want. though progressive, his concepts are no less thoughtful & are often time inspired by tremendously artistic elements. here, i feel, owens has really struck a cord in design- a fusion of his hard edged style is seen added to greater concepts of classic style & defined sophistication. a really stunning set of design & great follow-up from last season’s relaxed designs. i love the volume & exaggeration seen thoughout the collection; i was very inspired by this fresh direction that was presented. i applaud the design & direction taken.  

imagesource | vogue.fr

fall prêt-à-porter, paris: balmain

with his wildly publicized absence at yesterday, a slew or reports discussing the mental state of balmain creative director have surfaced. christophe decarnin, who has been creative director at balmain is said to have been admitted to a mental institution being treated for depression. while the fall collection seen here, which debuted on the runway just yesterday; is said to have not been designed by decarnin. with the media spectacle that has been hovering over fashion & this year thus far, the balmain collection is one thing that remains the same. the same tired use of metallics, strong shoulders & micro-mini’s were seen. though tired, if the clothes are selling i guess the label will continue to rock with it. as decarnin’s absence hints at a forthcoming change, im hoping that balmain will soon escape this lull in fashion design we’ve seen for way too many seasons to count or care. decarnin, despite being reported as being out on doctors orders, was seen out in paris last night.

imagesource | vogue.fr

fall prêt-à-porter, paris: zac posen

refined & stylized, zac posen presented his FW11 collection on the runways of paris fashion week yesterday. as jourdan dunn opened, coco rocha, karlie kloss, carmen kass, jessica stam, ming xi & crystal renn followed. noticeably more simplified this season, i really loved the collection for it’s fusion of classical & progressive elements. a dark, rich palette allowed each look to possess power on the bodies of each female who was cast. the design lines of the collection were particularly interesting; chic construction was seen throughout. with his signature silhouettes, the collection presented beautiful use of fur & perfect hints of metallics this season. seems like zac is even stronger in paris, since making the move from the runways of new york.

imagesource | vogue.fr