fall prêt-à-porter, paris: hermès
by Jeremy Danté
as a new chapter for hermès unfolds in front of our very eyes, new creative director christophe lemaire takes position & makes his debut for the house this fall in paris. as the replacement of jean paul gaultier, the house of hermès has seemingly been transformed & this season shows lemaire’s aesthetic being applied to the french label’s FW11 collection. clean lines, elongated silhouettes & pure style are seen impressively, proving that lemaire is the right fit, aesthetically, for the brand. while the success of his designs will become either denied or approved through sales for this collection, at this stage i like what was presented though i do feel that lemaire’s own style is injected rather strongly into the collection, which seems to work very well. i think it’s interesting to see how designers develop their signature & how they can apply that to established houses. each fashion house has their own set of signatures, elements that have become iconically associated with them over time & im still waiting to see what else lemaire has up his sleeve. beautiful use of color was seen this season & accessories had their share of the spotlight as well. a slew of white looks entered the front end of the show sequence as dramatic floor length coats were seen. beautiful use of leather, fur & oversized turtle neck collars were designs as most of the design lines remained true to lemaire’s design point of view of relaxation. use of geometric print was seen in yellow as beautifully clean pieces of leather were seen caramel & butterscotch toned leather. i loved the use of print & feel that lemaire can really allow the house to move into a new phase with both modern & still classical edge. one aspect i often associate with hermès is that of cleanliness & it doesn’t get cleaner than this. beautiful execution, wide range of design concepts, beautiful use of color & progressive forms of design with accessories.
imagesource | vogue.fr