spring collections twelve overview: new york
by Jeremy Danté
given the recent events, i’ve been a little more hesitant to post here. with the response of my last post, i really want to remain in that lane. for a long time i’ve been, in some ways, removed from what i was writing about, observing from the outside in. but this season, im gonna to make a greater effort to inject a much more personalized writing style into what is seen here. in others, much more of a selective presence will be seen. more in-depth pieces, much more discussion of what influences me will be presented as well. i do find it important to maintain a mystique & while some aspects will remain untouched, a much more thoughtful set of actions will serve as the foundation for what i am looking to represent, not as a blogger, but as a writer. i don’t feel that the title of ‘blogger’ is even large or well defined enough to hold all of what i feel i have to contribute. as the self proclaimed, face of fashion blogging- my aim was never to fit into this confined catagory of new talent but to re-emerge as how this shit should be done after seeing the lame ass approach taken by others- less creative, less original & less thoughtful than myself. keeping in mind the response i’ve been able to generate through the screen; i still don’t feel that i’ve done half of the vision i have in my mind. i will always be about beauty, art & creative transcendence- i represent a new breed.
fashion in new york city is cancerous. that shit spreads every year more & more with designers from around the globe all trying to crack the industry. it’s amazing though, one season you could be doing a presentation & the next season you’re at the lincoln center as one of the huge shows. america has always represented opportunity & in new york, especially in fashion, this is very evident. considering the expansion of the asian market & the exclusivity of the european market- new york is really the only other option for young designers. editors, stylists & miscellaneous fashion spectators will tell you- new york fashion week is pandemonium. you basically go from one location to the next sometimes across the city. im all about loving clothes & admiring design or being infatuated with glamour but that shit is tiring. even in managing your calender, when RSVP’ing it’s easy to double book a show or to miss something because you thought it was an hour later than it was actually scheduled. coordination is vital & im not talking about your outfit. all bullshit aside, the SS12 fashion season in new york brought a slew of new designers & our beloved veterans to the limelight. floral print, stunning solids & an army of style awaited in the form of runway shows & presentations. this season, i’ve decided to change up the way i cover runway. while i like looking & posting collection by collection- much like running around in the city to attend shows, yes, that shit is also tiring. by the fifth collection everything starts to look the same & the trends of the season are burned onto your brain. each fashion capital will have it’s own recap- first up, of course, is new york. in the grime of the city, florals & bold tones hit the runways, marking the direction of next spring.
so much of me has struggled with the idea of flipping the script. im always very wary about what you guys are receptive to but then i stopped & remembered one day- this is jeremydante.com! meaning, some form of personalization is allowed & in many ways accepted. watching rachel zoe re-runs today, she said, “fashion is subjective” & oddly, a text conversation with a model friend of mine in new york city seen the same line uttered, “fashion is subjective.” now, being mindful of the words we use in big & small instances- definitions are something i look at throughout the day, even if i already know the meaning of the word. i find that this constant reminding or clarification is what keeps you sharp. subjective is defined as “pertaining to or characteristic of an individual; personal; individual. existing in the mind; belonging to the thinking subect rather than to the object of thought. placing excessive emphasis on one’s own moods, attitudes, opinions”. basically, fashion is different for every person. for me, as evident through my own blog design- im receptive & most responsive to clean structure. whether we’re talking about my stack of vogue issues categorized by month or we’re talking about how i make notes for the seasonal trends- im just that way; i like order. that same discipline that is rooted to my upbringing is reflected in what i wear & define as ‘style’. now style is also subjective- the shit i think is cute you might think is ugly. but that’s fine. i’ve picked a few collections to reference for the new york recap & will provide an overview of my personal selections as well as trends.
personally, im a thorough minimalist- in every sense. my idea of personalizing something is to strip it down to it’s bare essentials. a lot of designers in america have also adapted their design approach to this concept. houses like calvin klein, philip lim, elie tahari, theysken’s theory & rachel zoe had some of the greatest minimalist influence this season. the 3.1 philip lim collection was one of my favorites in new york this season, as i loved the use of clean lines & sculpted silhouettes. in palette, the collection hosted an array of pastels which was a bit unexpected given that many other labels went for much more bold color picks. proenza schouler is another of my favorites out of new york but this season, they were slightly off. i loved the use of layering & the deconstruction of some silhouettes but all in all, i’ve loved many of their past collections much more. that said, i appreciate them changing their direction up a bit. my favorite of new york in totality for the SS12 season? theysken’s theory- without a doubt. the effortless cool of his designs, the flawless movement of the silhouettes- it was all done in a way that seemed to fit stylishly but organically as well. when looking at collections, i like to observe natural progression; considering what the designer has done in the past season & contrasting that to what he/she has done in the new season. olivier theyskens, whom is the head designer of the collection- is one of fashion’s most creative & im more than excited to see that his design genius has been well placed at theory. overall, this season was fair. nothing beyond spectacular was seen.
some ways to incorporate trend, without completely jumping shit on ship in terms of your own style; is by incorporating colors from the runway. this season, it seemed like a race of the color wheel. at the front end of the race, it seemed as though pink would be the front runner as runway shows by jason wu, badgley mischka & thakoon all showcased shades of pink. in addition, collections revealed in presentation format- jenni kayne, the gap & j. crew also included pink in their palettes. spring is often associated with color, as it mirrors much of the weather forecast. in my own observation, the runway was filled with yellow. a variety of shades was seen while i was most impressed by the use of yellow by another new york designer favorite of mine, reed krakoff. pale tones of yellow were seen as krakoff’s love for simplicity & sheer style were well represented on the runway. donna karan added yellow accessories & dresses to the trend report as did elie tahari, rodarte, derek lam & michael kors.
print was by far the biggest creative force on the runway, as many designers were able to showcase the design addition in a number of much more personalized ways. one aspect i love about show season is seeing how each designer interprets the trends. print in particular is interesting- while it can be served up in a number of ways, it can also be deconstructed or reworked season after season; moving far beyond trend. with the right design sensibility the right type or print can transcend into timeless style. iconic american designers donna karan & michael kors created more tribal collections for the spring 2012 season, as warm earth toned palettes were the base of animal print & even some forms of tie die. while most collections adapted printed design works to dresses, michael angel flipped the script & created printed coats for his collection, which i loved. jason wu & preen also took floral variations to the runway this season. surprisingly, i had expected designer thakoon to remain rested in a space of design minimalism, especially considering the effortlessness that is associated with spring. his collection was largely based on print & a bold palette was seen, to match. i appreciated the opposition, but did not find very many pieces i loved. while print can be great & provide a bit of flash in classically styled looks, it can also become easily overwhelming when paired with other pieces that appear ‘busy’. new york based label, nicole miller took another chance on the runway, continuing with her use of print that we seen slightly from her fall collection. her use of print was along the lines of thakoon, in that the collection came off as too busy or chaotic to be considered fresh. the nicole miller brand is one of intense interest for me. while i applaud the labels strategy to become much more young, the direction, season after season, seems forced. it’s almost as if the designs are adapted to the thought of what is ‘considered cool’ rather than creating something that is organically stylish, or undisputedly classic. i find that the greatest style moments often happen by accident & it’s best to not overthink it, rather than letting it flow. that said, print will be on the racks come spring 2012 & the way each designer interprets this trend, not to mention how you precieve it, is all subjective. what’s dope about print is that there are a large number of variations on the market already & come spring, an army of options will be available. fashion is what you make it; wear what you want.
in the past couple of seasons, we’ve seen 90’s style hold a greater amount of influence on the runway. this season, that same influence still seems to live on. while a large part of me is very much about simplicity, my personal taste in terms of palette can be boring in ways. while i gasped at the design simplicity & clean design lines muted in color, i was very much responsive to the amount of bold solids that hit the runway. i was incredibly inspired by the womenswear collection presented by yigal azrouël this season. beautiful use of color & the right amount of cleanliness for my inner minimalist to be satisfied, the azrouël collection served modern style vividly. the further we progress as a stylized nation, its interesting to see how silhouettes change. from body conscious to intentionally relaxed, it’s fun to see which shapes you’ll see. one aspect i’ve envied of women is the option to just throw on a dress. during hot weather, girls can throw on one piece & look stunning, while men are stuck having to pair of pants or shorts & then have to choose a top. this one piece, solid color look was powerfully present on the runway as designers like jenni kayne, derek lam & rachel roy created vibrance for the spring season. it’s always nice to add a shot of color into your wardrobe. be mindful of what colors look best on you & compliment your skin tone, hair color or even your eyes. greater style exists in greater moments of restraint- in other words, don’t over do it.
i think i’ve said it more than enough in this post alone, im naturally drawn to simplicity. this season, i noticed a lot of white but did not want to allow myself to be so immediately drawn to what feels so natural to me. i think white, of all the colors, is always stunning. it’s no secret that i go out of my way to represent models of color, considering i am of color. against brown skin, white is beyond stunning. accented by feathers or designed dramatically sleek with modern edge, white spilled onto the runways, elegantly & effortlessly chic. white is so easy because, no matter how it’s worn, it’s simple & fresh. in what i’ve described as american couture, marchesa continued to dominate with grace this season- creating a collection that was poetic, elegant & in it’s own lane in terms of trend. i don’t think it’s even necessary for people to talk about white or black as a trend- it’s there all the time, regardless of the season. i do, however, feel the need to point out elements that stand out to me & white was just one of those things this summer. granted, if we see white on the runway for the fall collections, it will be just as stunning to me. the row presented an all-white collection in hopes of presenting something ‘breath taking’ – in short, it worked. while i was impressed particularly by the effort of design that was presented, i was impressed with the direction. it showed that both mary-kate & ashley are mindful of being perceived as true designers & not simple ambassadors of trend. i always look for designers that can either represent trend well or defy it with ease. included amidst metallic footwear, white can be worn in a number of ways & is an instant show stopper every time.
taking into consideration the number of shows that i was lucky enough to receive an invite to; i was hoping that my content would be much more greatly shaped around those shows. though my attendance did not go as planned for the SS12 season, i am hoping that i will gain a better creative opportunity to cover shows the way i see in my mind; which allows you as the reader to be immersed in the creative process & not overwhelmed by scenarios of politics & impure fashion perceptions. while new york has wrapped for this season, london along with paris & milan still await. while london fashion week is in progress; i have been watching the shows & taking greater moments to soak in each designer’s vision. i will be writing about each fashion capital, as each wraps. in gratitude, i thank all of you who share this love of fashion with me & enjoy the aspects of what fashion truly is. beyond how thriving an industry it is, or whether or not we understand the financial jargon that has now enveloped it; you & i are the ones who make fashion real. there is no me without you & for that i am forever grateful.
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