PRE-FALL COLLECTIONS: PRINGLE OF SCOTLAND
by Jeremy Danté
LONDON – under the creative directi0n of alistair carr, influences of his balenciaga design background are evident. previous to his work as design director at pringle of scotland, carr assisted nicholas ghesquière for 4 years at balenciaga. seen through use of silhouette, choice in textile & use of color; the collection is definitely a modern twist for the scottish label. in contrast to collections of the past from pringle of scotland, i find it completely refreshing that this sense of new is being seen as the label itself has been in existence since 1815. a brand better known for their knitwear, the collection seen here capitalized on innovative re-workings of classical fall looks. in palette, there was a good balance of essential fall tones while a few surprises in design. commendably the collection managed to balance of number of aspects that kept things young yet classic.
one aspect of design that i admire of designers is their approach in designing for certain ages. within this collection, an incredibly wide range of consumers will definitely be drawn in. here exists sophistication for the young & modern freshness for the more mature. with more established labels, there is a certain degree of style that needs to be protected; for a label as widely developed as pringle of scotland, i believe that this motion to boss up as a modern label will allow them even greater advantages as a competitor in the high end market. by opting to take someone who has the design skill from a house like balenciaga- that move in itself is proof that some form of modernization is not only expected, but needed. those modern elements were seen, etched into every single aspect of the collection when looking both closely & at a distance. i loved the attention to silhouette; the wide range of anatomical shapes that were seen & almost outlined the body- so as to not disrupt personal style, rather enhance it. so sick. when posting a couple of my favorite looks from the collection, one spectator gushed about the collection footwear. i thought that element to be very calculated & smart- considering that pringle of scotland is still, somewhat, of a rookie having only begun producing luxury accessories since 2007. after the resignation of pringle’s previous director, claire wright keller, whom is now at the helm creative director at chloé; i had my reservations about the direction that the label would take. considering how i’d grown fond of keller’s design direction & it’s classical appeal; i am even more enthusiastic about this new, revitalized style sensibility from carr.
the collection has it’s share of structure but provides beautiful details & design notes that are hidden throughout. in an unexpected feat, the collection goes from architectural dresses to complex knitwear, perfectly. with the wide array of elements that are developed in this set, it’s all thoughtfully combined & meticulously executed. i loved the side-button cardigan number a lot; admiring the fact that even some of the most classic pieces weren’t left untouched; without remix. the palette was never dull as deep marooned tones were matched to mustard yellows & golden honey browns. beautiful navy was contrasted with crisp drops of teal, while red & orange led us to speckles of print. that print seemed to ignite at the close of the collection, which seen more contrasts of orange eruppted in a set of volcanic printed looks. as the third collection to be produced under the direction of alistair, i am eagerly anticipating next seasons collection & applaud this as a pre-season effort. will be keeping an eye out on reports of revenue increase onward through the new year as well. strong collection & well developed aspects of modernization to a classic brand. [source]