by Jeremy Danté

PARIS – very few collections in fashion possess the true form of power in trendsetting. while most labels create collections heavily inspired by the past, not many are able to transcend into actual, original design. fully considering that nothing on this planet is new or completely original, i find that phoebe philo is one of those rare cases. though philo herself might’ve been inspired by some aspect of the past or other design references, her thought process, in what we can see as a final result on the runways, is flawlessly conceptualized & heartbreaking produced. heartbreaking only for her high fashion competition, with whom she slays each & every season, yes, even in the pre-season. 

it’s not secret that my heart lies with design structure, cleanliness of silhouette & a controlled palette with minimal disruption of wild print or ostentatious logos. in my evolved interest of style, thing have consciously gotten more & more simple. of course, during show season, i look to certain collections that adhere to my obsession & that produce it with greatness. céline is the ringleader of that designer grouping for me. while other collections go for style hysteria with crazy florals & logoed handbags, céline plays the field with the low key cool reminiscent of aaliyah. its that effortlessness that continues to have me in convulsions with each collection presented. this season, philo stays in that lane of minimalism while producing elongated silhouettes suitable for the fall season. coats are a consistent statement on the runway for fall & transition seasons, or pre-season collections. while other labels produced collections dipped in a vivid teal, philo has opted to add a royal blue to her palette, a move that has separated her once more. contrasted bouts of royal blue float stylishly alongside shades of navy, flashes of brown & a bit of metallic undertones with the usual white, black & grey palette cameos.

hands down, the most surprising element of the collection, for me- was the use of fur. slight inclusions of fur were seen as the collection sequence graduated but look 19 had you floored. the model was completely drapped in a showstopping, full length fur coat that was paired with a coinciding print-pant. in an attempt to avoid any form of overkill, the look was paired with a simple heel, a white belt which cinched the waist & a white leather magazine clutch. surprised, even when one nod of drama is seen from céline & again, my hands are raised to the sky for the creative direction of phoebe philo. a hero in my heart, i am always thrilled & inspired to see what she’s putting on the runway or, a look book. as a clear indication that philo is coming for blood this fall, im sure that her FW13 collection will go just as hard as this set. use of print was seen in a much more artistic form toward the back-end, which fit well alongside the collections use of fur & balanced out the intentionally minimalistic approach. additionally, the collection hosted a murderous set of accessories that will further allow the label to dominate in the accessories market, as versions of céline’s beloved handbags appeared supersized. it seemed as though the collection took pre-existing styles from their recent season & magnified them- pants were longer, bags were bigger & everything was better. overall, the collection poises a winning entry to the pre-season, which will act as a style appetizer to show season which is looming nearer & nearer with each hour. an incredibly dope set of design & commendable effort from philo & the céline team. love, love, love the collection & absolutely cannot wait for the fall show season. [source]