PRE-FALL COLLECTIONS: CHLOÉ
by Jeremy Danté
PARIS – chloé has been one interesting label for me to watch. as the label that provided both stella mccartney & phoebe philo a platform for design together, the same aesthetic the two have applied to the label is still heavily intertwined into their collections. fresh off my review of celiné’s pre-fall collection, i thought it necessary to follow-up with chloé, considering that clare waight keller is now in place as the label’s creative director. previously of pringle of scotland, clare waight keller is one designer that has caught my eye. through her work with the british based, scottish established, pringle of scotland; i became much more familiar with her design eye & attention to clean lines. with a design resume that includes work for some of the finest names in the business, keller’s killer skills have been shaped & accentuated by her past work with american empire lines calvin klein & ralph lauren, in addition to her work with tom ford in 2000. this lead clare to her stint at pringle in 2005, which resulted in award-winning work, which earned her the scottish cashmere designer of the year award.
now in her new post at chloé, i was surprised & excited to see that hannah macgibbon was no longer in place & clare would be her replacement. familiar with clare’s refined taste & knowing the modernized reputation of designers who’ve worked at chloé, my eyes shift toward the french based womenswear to see how clare would kill her latest opportunity. having gotten press for being open about looking to blogs & understanding the value of her new post at chloé, i’ve come to admire clare as a designer who has her ear to the street- which i respect on a whole other level. it’s important, as it is with any artist, to allow your interests & inspirations to remain fresh, you have to keep things young & new- especially as a fashion designer. credited for completely reinventing the pringle of scotland label during her six year tenure, i feel like clare is the perfect fit for chloé. debuting her first collection, for the summer/spring 2012 season; this season, keller demonstrates her ability to create & direct with a fresh aesthetic & an eternally chic sense of palette.
this sesaon, with this collection, clare allows silhouettes played a large role. in the pre-season, im always looking to see what was used from the previous collection & what was introduced as a new concept. i like the idea of a pre-season set, always looking for ways design talents have used the opportunity to segue or quickly pacify collections. the approach of each designer shows their committment to good design & value of clientele. clare’s approach to the pre-season is one of the more developed of the pre-fall & i’ve only dedicated time to labels who’ve, in some way, expressed this dedication through what i measure as good quality. i loved the collections use of color, the milky tones were both feminine while still being sophisticated. beautiful use of twill, classic use of plaid & cutesy use of powedered tones were all seen in the collection. being drawn to aspects of design that are simplified & modern, this collection is one of my favorites of the pre-season. cannot wait to see what clare & chloé will unveil for the FW13 show season in paris, this month. clare appears to be the perfect fit for the french label. now let’s see that SS12 campaign. [source]