PRE-FALL COLLECTIONS: MATTHEW WILLIAMSON
by Jeremy Danté
LONDON – you can always count on phenomenal use of print when looking at any collection by matthew williamson. so was the basis of his pre-fall collection, which hosted beautifully balanced palette notes & classic glamour through silhouette. i have often been a little put off by williamson’s use of print in the past, but this season it was all perfectly balanced. founded in 1997, matthew williamson created his namesake label following his graduating from central saint martins in 1994. shortly after his graduation he had a stint as marni which lead to the creation of his namesake line. praised by the fashion elite, williamson has garnered a hefty set of fashion accolades throughout his career; taking home the elle designer of the year award in 2004, followed by the moet & chandon fashion tribute award in 2005 & the red carpet designer of the year award at the 2008 british fashion awards. with flagship stores in both london & the united states, as well as a standalone retail location in dubai the williamson label is one of noted progress in today’s rapid industry.
for the pre-fall season, williamson seems to hit his stride with an even greater sense of perfected skill. floored by how beautiful each design in this collection was, i have been watching williamson’s design direction for the past couple of years & this has to be one of his best. a wide ranged palette was presented for the pre-season & impressively, the entire collection held together cohesively. from classic looks of sharply tailored coats to more refined pieces like the number of evening wear pieces that were seen. matthew has mastered the art of combining the imaginative with the subtle & classic. an animal printed pant would otherwise seem too loud or unattractively gaudy, but through this collection it’s kept sophisticated enough to rock at the office or even to a formal even. the spectrum of print that is seen in the collection pushes the limitations of what can be done with print, proving that much more how much a master matthew has become with his more than decade long career in fashion. from octagon-tribal inspired prints to jewel toned coats & lavish use of fur- the collection encompasses a large number of styles, allowing the range of consumer interest in the line to become that much more broad. silhouettes that channel that ever so chic boyfriend look that is a huge hit in the style market now, as well as more feminine silhouettes are both included in the collection while relaxed & restricted design lines live harmoniously together in this ultra-stylish pre-season effort. beautiful use of color & a true stamp of williamson signature fashion. an incredibly strong direction, if any indication of the strength that will be seen on the runway for london fashion week, next month.
with development of a fragrance in 2006 & a diffusion line, that will act as a sister line to the williamson mainline, MW by matthew williamson looking to be launched spring of this year- there seems to be no end in sight for the upward climb of williamson. targeting more aspects of the market, williamson seems to be hitting the nail right on the head all with the delivery of incredibly chic design. reportedly raking in £9.5 million annually, the williamson label is definitely one to put on your radar if you haven’t already. as demonstrated here for this pre-season effort, williamson is not playing games. [source]