FALL MENSWEAR: BURBERRY PRORSUM
by Jeremy Danté
MILAN – as the leading british label of the moment, burberry has dominated for the past few seasons & i’ve definitely developed an emotional attachment to them since my live stream a few seasons back. generally, i approach menswear during show season with a slight hesitation. i know what i can expect, considering the number of season’s i’ve taken more of an active interest. i often talk about these requirements or limitations that exist in menswear & each season those limitations become more & more clear to me. in comparison to womenswear, most labels can’t even extend the level of creativity that their women’s collections can. for men, it’s the coats, the hats, blah, blah, blah. but beyond my assumption of the blah came a pleasant surprise in the form of burberry’s latest fall menswear collection. a sensible remixed set of the classics was presented all while allowing a feeling of new to be represented.
i consider what i respond to pretty simple; i like certain colors & am generally more minimal when it comes to structure or silhouette. to me, style shouldn’t be complicated, im very much about effortlessness. so, naturally, i look for those things in a collection. i look for beauty, inspired concepts & thoughtful details. i respond to things that are clean & classic with a touch of modernization & all those elements were represented, this season, in the latest burberry men’s collection. given the weather conditions in burberry’s base of london, their collections have a deep rooted history in the creation of the rain or trench coat. the show began with the sound of rainfall as the first look was a belted trench which had umbrella’s accompanying the models on the catwalk. it was all very straight forward, crisp & sharply tailored at the front end of the runway sequence. as the expected slim fit trousers, newsboy caps & three piece suits made their expected cameos in the expected tones of black, white & grey with little to no contrast of other more vibrant tones. most appealing to me in this collection was the grey pieces, the use of wool & more tamed usage of studs. the burberry label has been more edgy in their use of studs in the last two seasons & im glad to see that this concept or design addition is slowly dying down, being used in more controlled, more subtle forms. studded gloves, umbrellas & laptop bags were thoughtfully included into the collection. multi-colored patterns & stripes accented classical pieces of knitwear & trench coats- elevating the sense of new to the otherwise typical collection.
those same modern palette notes on the collections accessories & leather bags were seen as the use of color seemed to be used much more freely as the collection drew closer & closer to it’s end. the color palette grew more & more beautifully, rich & deep as velvet looks walked alongside leather coats, next to contrasted tones of teal, maroon & mustard yellow. the collection seemed to appeal more & more to the younger demographic toward it’s close as there was a larger presence of flash, vibrance & exotic detail. diamond quilted coats in militant greens & brown fur collars skated on the runway alongside stoned faces of bejeweled foxes, which appeared on dress shirts & sweaters. while i’ve expressed my hatred of velvet, this collections use of it was sophisticated & beautiful as oppose to it being hideous or camp, which is how i’ve seen it used by other designers in the past. at the close, the familiar sound of rainfall drummed along the runway through the sound system as the lights were dimmed to allow a holographic image of rain to be projected. following the projection of rainfall, the house lights were again signaled on & the cast of models did their final walk with opened umbrellas. overall, christopher bailey is an outstanding talent at burberry who has allow the company & historical label to dominate in the high end arena through skillful execution & modern ideas. as popular or played as the burberry label has become in recent years, i value bailey’s creative approach & value his skill set as a director. superb collection & a true reworking of classic items that will never, ever go out of style. one of my favorite men’s collection this fall, no doubt.