FALL MENSWEAR: PRADA
by Jeremy Danté
MILAN – miuccia prada is one of few true trendsetters in fashion. im always wondering what she’ll unveil each season as she clearly comes at fashion in her own lane, separate from others. refined, sophisticated & in control- this season seen prada taking things one step further in creating almost presidentially sleek style for the runway. described as a ‘parody of male power’, the collection seen models walking alongside actors in the theatrical event. sprawling across a square, red carpeted runway- the models walked stiffly on the runway outfitted in regal coats, blazers & three piece suits buttoned all the way up each models neck. an accurate portrayal of how up tight powerful figures can be was demonstrated well on the runway & delivered the vision of the collection entertainingly. what i love of prada is that muiccia is smart & it shows in the clothes.
with a PhD in political science, miuccia prada; transcends beyond typical trend & is uses design as a reflection of the times, as seen each season. as a mere vehicle for this ultra-creative expression, muiccia again remains in her own lane with this concept of power that is seen in the strict slihouettes, double breasted blazers over trench coats & the unmasking of the male façade that is seen in the exposed undergarments of the models at the back end of this runway show. the runway show sequence started out very formal, what you would expect of a man in power to be outfitted in. but as the collection progressed use of print & bold tones appeared strikingly. the role of power was extended that much more with actors. gary oldman, academy award winner adrien brody, willem dafoe & jamie bell were cast for the role of model in the ‘palace of role play’ themed collection. everything about the collection was grand, the setting, the idea, the delivery- it was well played. always armed with dope accessories, i loved the color dipped footwear in the collection, which added an air of trend to the otherwise classic collection. the styling approach to layers was probably the most inspiring aspect of this collection to me. even with the solid toned looks, there were multiple layers of coats & blazers which made you take a closer look. throughout the collection, you were almost trying to figure out which level of power each look was designed to have. some looks more classic than some of the more bold, the collection palette was in line with other collections this season as a rich palette of earth tones was contrasted with maroon, plum & yellow for balance. eyewear had a subtle but charging presence in the collection as the shows soundtrack cut in & out from operatic vocals to new wave. arrogant by design, if such a thing exists, the collection was unapologetically masculine & took on the role of male stupidity well. added the fact that this role reversal of power was calculated at the hands of a women, this made the show much more exciting. the level of expression & meaning behind prada collections adds greater value, allowing fashion to take on the greater role of art. im eagerly anticipating if this same theme will be mirrored in the house’s womenswear collection & how that will all be translated through campaign direction. strong collection with a powerful message of male domineering. fashion with a message- that’s what its all about.