FALL MENSWEAR: VIVIENNE WESTWOOD
by Jeremy Danté
MILAN – overtime, i’ve grown more & more fascinated by vivienne westwood. in my observations of fashion, i was initially lost & confused by how her sense of design could be seen as wearable, though i’ve continued to expand my perception & challenge my own understanding of style for her work. for the past few seasons, i’ve caught myself falling deeper & deeper in love with her collections, not knowing if my eye for style was much more exposed or if she has commercialized her approach. that said, this season, the same theatricality that confused me is now inspiring to me. an iconic designer in london for her contributions to the punk rock movement in mainstream, westwood continues to remain a fresh force in fashion with one of the most influential design perspectives in the world. the concepts presented this fall defend that title, beautifully.
a true visionary westwood is, as she put male models on the runway with frost bitten beards. a motion which signaled, creatively, that this was a fall/winter collection. a throng of my favorite male models were cast for the show as david agbodji, jean carlos, tobias sørenson, miguel iglesias, paolo roldan & rael costa all made their cameos on the catwalk. interlaced perfectly, to balance the classic with the modern; the collection hosted a gang of handsome formal looks that were given a punch of westwood’s incredible, one of a kind style. contrasting the loud with the formal, patch worked pants were seen paired with rich golden brown coats as navy jackets were accented with brown buttons & paired with yellow shoes. the concept of style for westwood knows no bounds- anything is possible. theres no matchy-matchy bullshit during this show, it’s all a challenge of the pre-established; which has allowed dame vivienne to stay on top of her game as a true original in a world of commercialized glamour that becomes controlled by luxury conglomerates & expectations for revenue. what’s so striking about the vivienne westwood collections, whether men or womenswear, is that each look is made of multiple powerful style elements & combined each looks packs an even more powerful punch. a master who understands style from every angle- westwood wins yet again.
though a wide range of style & design concepts was seen on the runway, the most impressive to me was the collections use of plaid. sure, the idea for the frost bitten beards was dope & came as a surprise but if you look at the collection as a whole, the use of plaid was most refreshing. as much as i love a showstopping stunt, i still value a collection that possesses a winning quality of wearability. would i wear this? i ask myself & in this case, the answer is yes. from more subtle use of plaid to more of the outrageous mix-match concept which was seen toward the back end of the collection, vivienne won me over this fall as one of the best menswear collections in milan. i applaud her unstoppable & challenging eye that remains a cut above the rest. [source]