FALL MENSWEAR: TRUSSARDI
by Jeremy Danté
MILAN – under the creative direction of one of my absolute favorite designers right now, umit benan, trussardi presents their latest fall collections on the runways of milan men’s fashion week. as many collections of trussardi, i’ve observed in the past- umit benan is rapidly changing the style quality of the collections in a much more creativity & style appeal. previously under the direction of multi-talented, creative genius milan vukmirovic, the trussardi label has presented off the runway & taken a position in fashion as more on-trend rather than acting as it’s own label, free from creative restraints. familiarity with umit benan, through his own namesake line, i was very excited to see that he had adapted changes to the trussardi label so early into his involvement with them. refreshing through new concepts & unexpected in design, the FW12 trussardi collection appears genuinely inspired. the collection is camp, but does not tread too far into the realm of cheesy, played perfectly in my opinion.
a vivid ode to the 70’s was seemingly represented for trussardi’s milan runway fashion show, with the collection packing a powerful punch in a smaller set of looks. i always find it interesting to see how bigger labels do bigger collections, but even in presenting in large quantities, the quality is not there. so was the case with trussardi, each look incredibly stylish & quality was dripping from every seam. a rich palette of oranged reds, soft greys, brown leathers, along with a range of blues & shades of yellows were all seen, which allowed the feel of the 70’s to come through that much more. from flared pants to neck scarves, to the retro shades worn by each model, the collection was successful in it’s delivery of style from the past. noticeable was the presence of accessories, which most menswear labels have been producing much more these days. overall, i love a collection that is well directed, cohesive & entertaining- which is what i got from this collection. while i don’t often identify with style that had existed in the 70’s, this season, im growing to appreciate it. im excited to see what benan will do as creative director for trussardi & am hoping that his presence will reshape the label, which has been resting on potential to be greater for the last few years. [source]