FALL MENSWEAR: CHRISTOPHE LEMAIRE
by Jeremy Danté
PARIS – fluid lines, minimalistic design direction- i’ve been enormously obsessed with christophe lemaire since he was at lacoste as creative director from 2000-2011. upon leaving lacoste, lemaire is now installed as creative director at hermès, refining the houses aesthetic even further from what was created at the label under the previous direction of jean-paul gaultier. for lemaire’s own namesake label, more dramatized use of his love for design fluidity flutters even more beautifully, free from restraints of having to respect historical archives. i’ve long loved christophe’s ability to minimize distracting patterns, manic logos & unecessary ornamentation by creating refined looks that are essential of clean style. in his extensive work with other labels, lemaire’s eye & design signature have remained unfazed by passing trends, remaining clean. the elongated design lines & swift silhouettes we’ve come to expect have all been represented. this season, he stays in that same design lane. consistent through concept, i remain in love with christophe’s direction.
a beautiful, dark & enriched palette of heavy navy & softened greys was seen from lemaire this season. his signature, almost kimono like silhouettes were ever presents as slight inclusions of red & maroon were added for dimensional contrast. overall, lemaire’s design style plays in favor of the minimalist in me. it’s not over done, it’s kept simple & clean. most designers nowadays are clawing to standout. yes, sex sells but not like the simplified. with the attention to tailoring that has consumed fashion, because it’s not just in womenswear now that men are wearing leggings; i appreciate the opposition that lemaire has projected into the high fashion stratosphere in creating more loose silhouettes. the pants in the collection are much more relaxed, as are the coats; everything is held to this standard of ease. though loose, the clothes don’t come off as sloppy or careless, it’s almost as if the care & intention to expand in shape is tended to with that much more concentration. styled in layers, which is seen from just about every label in existence; even the use of layers is not over thought- it’s all as simple as can be. i find that that simplicity is whats most stunning about lemaire. each season, im always excited to see how christophe approaches the season & each time, im pleased. loved the knitwear in this collection as well; styling of a collection speaks volumes for me. especially when collections are presented through look book images. the choice to shoot on a blushed studio backdropped drives the theme of design simplicity even further. love that, even though voluminous, the looks are still sharply tailored & are much more fitted where it counts- on the waist. expected a strong collection from lemaire & we got one- along with umit benan, lemaire is one of my design faves. [source]