FALL MENSWEAR: DRIES VAN NOTEN
by Jeremy Danté
PARIS – a belgian designer with roots traced back to the legendary antwerp six, dries van noten is a true fashion star. beyond any mark of trend or seasonal sensationalism, van noten is one of the few designers that is tried & true. true to the fact that he creates past the influenced, which every other label creates against. a set of beautifully tailored coats & formal looks filled the fall collection, as the runway also doubled as live artist exhibit. most interesting was the fact that this live art exhibition seemed to spill onto the runway in onto the collections clothes. the collection was inspired by musician, frank zappa & author, oscar wilde; being described by van noten as ‘psychadelic elegance’. the theme was articulated incredibly accurate as the prints used in the collection seemed to take on the electric musical presence of zappa while taking on the animated writing style of wilde. the collection remained streamlined through it’s controlled palette which was well balanced with the use of pattern.
the collection remained pretty classic from start to finish, the most radical concept introduced into the collection was the use of print. this print was applied to the collection’s dress shirts & coats in the form of text prints which added a sense of retro feel. celebrated as one of the most ‘cerebral’ designers in fashion for his eccentric style, dries van noten is one of the few designers who completely embodies the design presence of antwerp. while more experimental aspects of style are often created by designers who are based, schooled & are influenced by that iconic region of belgium; what i love about dries is that his use of design experimentation is still wearable. while i value a experimentation, the purpose of fashion is to clothe us as the consumers, so that is definitely a factor i take into consideration when reviewing a collection. dries is one of my favorite designers being that he is never predictable but always reliable. overall, loved the direction & how well van noten’s inspiration was worked into the collection carefully while not being completely disconnected. unexpected inspiration & thoughtfully executed. [source]