FALL MENSWEAR: LOUIS VUITTON
by Jeremy Danté
PARIS – i always find it interesting to see how collections, which are creatively directed by other designers who have their own namesake labels, differ in design direction. usually, bigger labels are seen in more controlled concepts, things are more regulated & more commercialized. marc jacobs is definitely a leader in the fashion game as a designer both at louis vuitton & with his own namesake labels. what marc has afforded for the house of vuitton is truly remarkable & the label is probably more profitable now then it has ever been. while marc is holding things down on the womenswear front, slaying with the labels enormously successful accessories, kim jones was brought on board to hold things down on the menswear front. not to be confused with kimberly jones the rapper, this kim has an impressive design resume which has secured his spot at vuitton. a british menswear designer who recieved a masters from central st. martin, jones has presented numerous collection & debuted his first runway collection in 2003. presented in london, new york & paris- jones has become a seasoned design entity with a cult following in the realm of menswear. in 2008, jones was installed as the creative director of dunhill, which seen him injecting modernized style into the heritage of the label which made the industry shift in his direction. in 2001, kim was put in the position of style director for louis vuitton’s men’s line, replacing paul helbers who was employed at the label for five years. said to be working very closely with marc jacobs in his new role, jones seems to be the right fit for the luxury label & his eye is refined enough to prove to be a successful fit.
this season, the classic palette of khaki, navy along with black & white are seen as sophisticated men’s pieces were seen on the runway. while the collection itself proves to strictly remain in one lane, by the wishes of vuitton im sure; overall, the collection is nothing groundbreaking or even new. though nothing new, the collection was beautifully executed with a refined direction that boasted an ill set of luggage, leather goods & footwear. the male models walked the runway with sleek hair as two tone-sleeved blazers, fur collars, berets & three piece suites all came slitering down the runway. the palette of classical tones that are regularly associated with menswear collections were seen as plummed tones & rich colors seemed to spill onto the runway, gradually. the collections knitwear, along with the bags carried by the models on the runway, were the most impressive. oversized belted cardigans were seen as collars on these pieces doubled as connected scarves. the collections coats were also another highlight for me, the satin parkas were eternally chic & another aspect of the collection which is sure to be a hit on the editorial circuit. after the pieces of knitwear & outerwear walked the runway, the collection closed with a few additional formal looks that were seen in velvet, that added another dimension of sophistication to the collection. though impressive, i was hoping to see something much more evolved in terms of concept. while menswear is weighed by it’s attention to silhouette & tailoring, those aspects were well executed but i was hoping something new would be seen. that said, i understand that jones is still very new to the vuitton design family & im hoping that over the course of the next few seasons, as well as the next few years, he is given a bit more creative freedom that allows him to expand the expectation of vuitton’s menswear, as marc has done for vuitton’s womenswear. overall, strong collection & cohesive translation of vision from start to finish. additionally, im hoping that the campaign for this collection will channel the same amount of sophistication & the right model is cast.