FALL MENSWEAR: RICK OWENS
by Jeremy Danté
PARIS – rick owens was always a designer that i was fascinated by but didn’t necessarily understand upon my getting better acquainted with fashion. it’s that lack of understanding that has pushed me to gain a better feel for what true ‘fashion’ is & how it is driven by style. in the context of style, rick owens is one of the best. if looking at just the clothes, just the images & never scratching the surface of the essence of what rick owens represents in fashion- of course you would never understand. as my last collection review for the FW12 menswear season, i wanted to close on a high note. this high note being the true mark of showmanship that can only be done by rick. with his legions of black, grey, white & the occasional bone toned fashion followers- rick is a true original in this game of fake fashion fucks. sound tracked by what i would describe as new wave tribal, everything from sound to stage, cut to seam- rick owens has mastered the art of expression while not worrying about what ‘everyone else’ is doing. while other designers find it necessary to expose nipples, shorten hem lines & add logos, sequins or fur; there exists owens. much of his approach to fashion, as a design force, is almost etched in the crevices of his runway show production. a show by every sense of the word; it’s magical to see sets of models sprayed onto the runway in sleek silhouettes of leather, platformed calve high boots & funneled necks. that is rick owens. it’s almost so mesmerizing to see his collection walk the runway that you become so engulfed in the production that you find yourself having to watch again, because the collection itself is dripping in details. details that stretch the mere style, into an essential.
what i loved about rick owens this season was his feel for that galactic aesthetic. stronger lines, more structure & a runway entrance that was cocaine white & glowing under stage lights. with an upcoming exhibit for his furniture about to commence, owens has taken every opporutnity to immerse himself in celebratory fashion for this event & his latest collection fell into that catagory. dubbed ‘magic mountain’ the collection is cited for it’s aspiration, inspiration & sportiff style direction. the essence of magic, i feel, is represented in the collections use of interplanetary lines that seem unbreakable when added to the rick owens silhouette. this season’s fall collection was praised for being aerodynamic, as rick’s favored silhouettes of relaxed pants & form fitting shirts that drift far beyond the waist were all meticulously combined. what i love of rick’s collection is that they take on even greater creative form in person, when purchased. the true art of rick’s clothes cannot even begin to be felt through simple images or show video- which seem to drown out details, which allow rick’s collections to be received on a greater, much more valued, style level. i am continually inspired by rick’s unbreakable sense of dedication to his own aesthetic, which has spawned many, many trends in high fashion & continues to puncture the culture & their perception of style.