SPRING MENSWEAR: BURBERRY PRORSUM
by Jeremy Danté
LONDON – gradually, i have approached show season with hesitation. in seasons past i have approached collection reviews thinking in a way that would demand my content to be produced like a machine. in the process of this mechanical demands i put on myself, i would often experience burn out. these days, i am much more selective with collections i speak about & feel that certain labels have a connection to the structure which has created the framework of what my site has become. i feel as though recent content has been much more personal for me, burberry being a label i tend to associate- due to the fact that we, yes i do mean you & i, were among the first news outlet in history to live stream the burberry fashion show live from london. this season, burberry took me aback. i have loved the past few collections from them in both menswear & womenswear, this season caused me to look with new eyes. i generally regard christopher bailey as a design genius. he understands where burberry falls in terms of brand heritage & understands how best the brand can evolve in order to usher in a new era. this new era allows the dominance of the british label to expand each season & this spring, bailey allows thought to become even more elevated. while i felt the collection lacked cohesion, i did notice an attempt to contrast. from high to low, the collection was one of extremes. the saturated, dulled tones to the hyper-electric outerwear- it certainly kept you alert, wondering what would come onto the catwalk next. though thrilling, it was odd. it was the kind of failed expectation that made me want to close the collection & wait for next season.
while i enjoyed the aspects of high & low throughout, i felt that nothing went together. the order & styling in which the collection was sequenced didn’t make sense- it was all over the place. the metallic pieces are sure to be a hit at retail & the earth tones were beautifully done but those horrid prints seemed to resemble bacteria. the dulled tones only looked more dull matched with the metallic footwear. while consumers don’t typically aim to rock full runway looks, the collection will no doubt sell as many burberry collections of recent day. the use of metallic, though beautiful singularly, seems extra or in some areas unnecessary- it totally disrupts cohesion among the other pieces. the expected genius of bailey was seemingly wasted here, the attempts at innovation fell flat, not because they were in fact flat but because other elements that were over the top blurred the greatness of the collections own subtlety. overall, the familiar military influence, which is rooted in burberry’s own heritage was present, but the collection lacked a storyline. which is what i look for during show seasons- the best collections tell a story & this season, i had trouble following along. [source]