SPRING MENSWEAR: JIL SANDER
by Jeremy Danté
PARIS – while many collections bordered boring this season, which is not completely unexpected given the patterns of menswear, jil sander made her return fittingly. there seems to be this overwhelming sense of 90’s style revival on the runways & in the streets- style has become reversed in many ways. while it is beyond me why anyone would want to revisit the 90’s for all of it’s faux-pas; i do find it intriguing, speaking specifically to the sense of nostalgia that i feel to anything 90’s. this season, jil sander was among those looking to further allow this revival to have a home in our fashion markets. as sanders return following the departure of raf simons, raf is now at the helm of dior. the collection was classically masculine but was artsy in that, blazers were sleeves & proportions were not as you would have expected them to be.
while some may have mistook sanders minimalism as boring, i found it beautifully executed. it was classical jil. sharp lines, incredible use of color & some inclusion of print. the grooming was just as innovative as the collection pieces- slightly off & not what one would have expected. with cardigans that seemed to be modeled after paintings by pier mondrian, the collection channeled a high art feel that could be seen on a man’s back. i am curious as to see how the label will change now that sander is back at her namesake label. all in all, raf allowed the sander signature to be preserved with a greater sense of modernization & it will be interesting to see the difference a female designer can have versus a man. the way that both men & women interpret clothing, as well as style is one that is vividly intriguing in the world of high fashion.
an aspect i found most interesting of the collection was the presence of texture. whether mindfully sleek or speckled print on some of the pieces- it was all very intricate. intentional if you must. that’s what i find so beautiful about minimalism- due to it’s stripped foundation, there leaves room for greater notice of how certain things feel. you question whether certain aspects were intentional & what intentions inspired such a visual to be created. jil is a true veteran in this game of fashion, welcome back. [source]