SPRING MENSWEAR: 3.1 PHILIP LIM
by Jeremy Danté
PARIS – following the fluidity of umit benan, the philip lim spring menswear collection is the perfect cornerstone of my own personal preference. with my notice of this 90’s style revisitation amongst trends, i love that those styles were reinterpreted with a little lim twist this season. like many of my favorite designers, there is an element of cleanliness to lim’s design. that of which is evident in this latest collection.as for my mention of those reinterpreted 90’s trends- you see it in the grooming, all that gel? yeah, that was me throughout the 90’s. the relaxed fit pants, the use of print & choice of color. distinctively 90’s- i don’t care what the inspiration is listed as, i know a style era when i see one. more specifically, i know the style era that i grew up in. while most of my admiration of this collection revolves around the design simplicity, i loved the use of print as well. oh, those shirts around the waist- how much more 90’s can a collection get? what i love is that this style reinterpretation isn’t obvious, it’s modernized. as you may have noticed, i like certain styles to be produced or presented in a natural state. i like things to feel natural, to feel comfortable. of course, when i say feel- i mean, how the clothes allow you to feel. certain aesthetics spark an emotional connectivity within us. whether you’re aware of that feeling or intuitive sense is what separates the artists from the uninspired. the uninspired being the unaware, or the less creatively grounded. grounded as in, earthed- an individual cautious of their surroundings & the effect they posses. it’s in this level of awareness that designers are able to channel certain energy in order to interpret style. it’s in this interpretation that fashion transcends as art.
amidst these forms of recycling or revisitation, that is what keeps designers valuable- everyone sees things differently in some form. while on the subject of influence as it relates to the trailing of inspiration, this collection found it’s creative root in the japanese population in brazil. noted as having the second largest population of japanese in the world, brazil is reflected in the collections use of print, the graphed pants & the japanese elements are felt in the modernized elements. a beautiful combination to say the least & incredibly thought provoking. inspiration is likely the most valuable element of fashion, it shows where one story ends & another begins. awarded by the council of fashion designers of america as an emerging menswear design talent, lim continues to create an astounding visual signature that creates strikingly simplified pieces that can be categorized as nothing less than chic. while i don’t like too much the bleaching of denim or some of the more intentionally rough design details, i love the collection as a whole & am beyond intrigued by the source of inspiration for this collection. i am beyond excited for what will be presented in new york for spring show season & how these inspirational aspects of design will be applied to womenswear. [source]