SPRING MENSWEAR: MUGLER
by Jeremy Danté
PARIS – in season’s past, i’ve panned the mugler collections for being boring or for seemingly underwhelming following all the media hype. much of my interest in fashion is rooted in the history of these brands, which allows me to really understand the total vision of certain labels & their respective design directions from season to season. brand history remains the touchstone for me when im doing collection reviews as well. im given the opportunity to correctly analyze the level of growth or respectful nod to the past in which creative directors apply to their work between the fall & winter, as well as the spring & summer. the mugler label is one that has been historically associated with a heightened level of creativity. from mugler’s exaggeration of the female form, to perfumes to his artistic advisory role on beyonce’s “i am” tour; the vision of theirry mugler is one that is recognized by many creatives across the board.
considering mugler’s established presence on the creative scene, i was initially interested in the choice to add nicola formichetti on as the labels creative director with plans to revisit the idea of creating a mugler label. after the first menswear collection was presented which was followed by womenswear that same season, i was put off by the ridiculous amount of PR the label was getting. with the involvement of lady gaga, whom is a styling client of formichetti, i was annoyed that the label was getting lost in the hype of the celebrity sponsors. it was not fashion, instead a circus. a circus soundtracked by one of music’s latest icons, gaga. no shade to gaga for her involvement, it allowed the label to become a conversational piece. but the hype & inclusion of pop stars seemed to overshadow the clothes. with all the hype, naturally, one would expect brilliance with all the hype, right? wrong. the clothes were simple. understated, you could say, but with all the hype- they seemed drab. i couldn’t understand or see what was so great- like the clothes didn’t live up to all the hype.
this season, after the hype has seemingly simmered, the collection was suddenly brilliant. outside of hype, existed this simple & striking set of menswear that showed the male physique in a way that had not been shown by other labels this season. just like that, i got it. i understood it- the vision, the modernization of what thierry mugler had created himself. as formichetti had mentioned, he intended to draw much more focus with the collection & thankfully so, the hype was getting to be too much. my eyes were rolling by reflex every time i seen something with the mention of mugler. something powerful is to be said of the need to disconnect; certain forms of disconnection, as i experience myself, allow for greater creativity. cited as aquatically inspired, the collection hosts concepts accurate to trend this season with the use of neon & contemporary tailoring. short shorts, cut outs exposing certain portions of the male torso- it was all done extremely well & outside of the media glare. it became about the fashion, about the design again. which i loved. the use of neon has been done by mugler before & i credit him as one label that has brought it back, somewhat, into the realm of what is considered stylish, as it relates to trend. i hope that formichetti stays in this lane of separation from the overkill of celebrity faces which crowd the front row these day. [source]