SPRING MENSWEAR: LANVIN
by Jeremy Danté
PARIS – as my final collection review for the summer/spring 2013 menswear season, lanvin surprised me with their latest. i admire the work of alber elbaz & loved what he & menswear director lucas ossendrijver created for the spring. there is a certain continuity that is represented from collection to collection whether menswear or womenswear at lanvin. elbaz has ushered in a new era for the label & continues to build on that vision by including intelligent reinterpretations of styles we’re familiar with. this season, it was function. we’ve seen all the outdoorsy type collections- the zippers, the backpacks, the shades & shorts. it’s rugged, it’s manly & tough. this was the direction of the collection by lanvin this season, but there was a greater level of luxury throughout. i love the fluidity in silhouettes at lanvin- each look always has this casual but expensive energy. it’s the slight slouch of a top or the high hem of a short, it’s all in the details. what i loved was the formality of creating a functionally styled collection of menswear.
the collection started with a slew of formal looks- we seen the expected drama in the use of leather, beautiful suits that were exaggeratedly thin, skinny ties appeared anorexic & that dark energy that i have come to associate with lanvin was ever present. through exploration of volume, there was a clear indication that the concept of opposites was being represented in this collection. from slouch & high waisted pants to slick tailored styles- a range of fit for a range of consumers was created & presented. the magic of this menswear collection was in the coats & jackets- again, a range of fits were presented as the concept of sizing was stretched to a place of limitless style. python coats, nylon sheer jackers- it was formal, then functional but the resonance of style never once became ignored. metallic outerwear has been a mainstay on the runway this season & that trend was also a focus within the lanvin show. while i don’t particularly favor metallic outerwear, the build up to the metallic portion of the runway collection was executed thoughtfully. noted were the elements of sport or athleticism, but the collections aim was to reflect upon that design direction in a contemporary, much more luxurious way. overall, the collection was a fitting close to the menswear season as the right amount of drama & simplicity were combined to present a thrilling show that represents yet another dimension of male style. a strong collection for the spring. [source]