FALL COUTURE COLLECTIONS: GIAMBATTISTA VALLI
by Jeremy Danté
PARIS – following the blur of disappointment & conversational hype of christian dior’s FW12 couture collection, giambattista valli intercepts as one of the best couture collections this season. from the proportions to the concepts- this, my friends, is what couture looks like. it’s the type of construction that surpasses normalcy into a space of artistry. the floral inspired gowns & dresses in this collection were inspiring, to say the least. i loved the netted faces on each model & the butterfly accents allowed the collection’s theme to be felt magically. from the beautiful prints to the voluminous silhouettes that came off as dramatic, but still every bit as beautiful. one things for certain, we got the drama we were looking for with couture in this collection. with career beginnings in couture, with cecilia fanfani in rome, valli is a standout every couture season & has quickly become one of my favorites. within his collections, there seems to be a greater preservation of creativity. presenting his first haute couture collection in 2011, valli is truly a remarkable talent that is seemingly greater than much more established entities. when big brands like dior or chanel are creating bland couture collections & you’re looking like their next generation predecessor- that shit means something. again, it makes me wonder, where is fashion going? how & why are we not able to really count on much more established brands to thrive in creativity? is it because these fashion shows have become so heavily restricted by corporate demands & branding ambitions?
without seeing the remainder of this couture season, i can definitely assure you with complete confidence that this collection is among the best, if not the best. i love when i go to review a collection & the clothes are so remarkably, unmistakeably good that there really is nothing left to say. it’s those kinds of beauty in design that i seek. it’s the kind of beauty that challenges your ability of articulation- that, is fashion. what i love so much of show season is the contrast we’re able to see when comparing ready-to-wear collections to that of haute couture. you imagine the legacy of such a craft as couture & really, the art form of fashion design is seemingly much more reduced these days. in an age where girls are rocking the words “couture” on their ass, you look at collections like these & have to admit- fashion is being compromised. during couture season, the true stars come out. giambattista being one of them, i am consistently impressed with his knowledge of not only design, but his emphasis on style. though theatrical in some forms, being much more avant-garde, over the top than ready-to-wear; you can still imagine the collection walking a red carpet. the fucking glamour! i can’t even stand it. this collection is one that grabs you. the type of beauty that captivates you. beautifully executed with a clear vision that can easily be interpreted. it’s extreme but not to the point of ugliness, it’s pretty but not to the point of uninteresting.