SPRING MENSWEAR • PETER JENSEN SS14

LONDON – with london taking charge of their presence in the fashion calendar, peter jensen‘s spring collection was the first to really capture my interest. im all about a dope concept, and this season- despite the fact that it was presented off runway, jensen created just that. the idea of andy warhol- his influence on art and really, the idea of celebrity still holds weight today. in many forms, warhol lay the ground work for what our growing creative industries are in the present. the peter jensen approach to design is often inspired by periods of the past- almost in a kitchty, but cleanly designed method. the look book images were shot perfectly- the styling was flawless and the presence of andy through proper conceptualization of image was played without a single hiccup. stellar approach to style, with a mindful nod to what andy embodies as a male figure. not to be confused with the bishop peter jensen, this danish born designer undertook a masters in menswear at central saint martins. he graduated from the acclaimed design college and went on to conquer the runways of london fashion week. internationally stocked on five continents around the globe, jensen’s menswear and womenswear stack shelves everywhere from london’s dover street district to moscow. based in east london, jensen’s work is widely credited to draw influences from pop culture, infamous or cult figures. evidence of that is seen in the content built into his current spring menswear collection. famous clientele of jensen’s collections range from amy winehouse to rihanna, kanye west, nicole kidman and dakota fanning. with a blossoming, high profile career, jensen continues to take on collaborative work with clients like topshop and fred perry. with recent introductions of sub-collections with moderate pricing, it seems as though the peter jensen label is one that will take on greater form in the coming years, if not already. with 10 years in the game under his belt, jensen’s work is often kept in good company at art exhibits and if this season’s inspiration is any indication of creative fufillment, jensen is definitely one to watch.

visit style.com for archived collections by peter jensen
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SPRING MENSWEAR • CHRISTOPHER KANE SS14

LONDON – christopher kane is no stranger to thinking outside of the box. his sense of wonder in design has allowed him to work alongside industry legend donatella versace. for kane’s own namesake collection, a separate creative entity from his work with versace’s little sister line, versus; is one of strong visuals and high impact graphics. with the rise of the internet and the greater emergence of style within our digital age, the collection is a fitting blend of innovative concepts that provide a fresh sense to the future. while more conceptual than wearable in a commercial sense, the collection lives in the vein of kane’s envelope pushing aesthetics- which have been the number reason for his success in fashion. spring is based in simplicity- the weather gets warmer, skin becomes more exposed. that aspect of simplicity is shown in this collection which reads, ‘basics’ loud and clear. a controlled palette of black, white and grey was strongly lit with the use of red, blue and yellow. one aspect of high fashion that is now more prevalent is inter-seasonality. with global warming, seasons aren’t what they used to be and though basics are the foundation of this season’s collection, there is still an extension of creativity that lives in this set. while menswear is often times more of a lull in creativity in comparison to womenswear- the use of graphics removes this collection from a sense of normality and allows it to be seen as much more. as im expecting, menswear is often much more tough for me to review as a writer due to the onslaught of men’s style guidelines. obeying the boundary of those guidelines are what allow this collection to appeal to a greater mass market, but truth be told- if the graphics did not exist in this collection, this wouldn’t be much to look at. that said, the graphics are present, and the involvement of more progressive silhouettes might’ve been seen as overkill. yet and still we see vectored faces and dizzying, almost three dimensional prints which are way more interesting in the realm of menswear, and will likely be a standout this season, even if im calling it prematurely. i applaud kane’s vision and anticipate how his collection will remain on trend or if it will exist in it’s own lane, which could result in a win in both cases. strong execution based in a somewhat standard approach. not the best, but a fair showing overall.

visit style.com for archived collections by christopher kane
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