SPRING MENSWEAR • ANDREA POMPILIO SS14

MILAN – of milan, it’s often a hit or miss for me. while some labels stay in the lane of passion by way of overkill, others are subdued and can be too subtle at times. the SS14 menswear collection from andrea pompilio remained well balance between those two design spectrums. admittedly, i have not heard much about andrea pompilio and after looking at this collection, i wanted to delve deeper into his past work. the collection, at first glance reminded me a lot of one of my favorite collections from last season’s menswear collections, dries van noten. the blending of patterns isn’t something i do in my off screen life, but this opened me to the idea of that much more. what i love of style now is that nothing is off limits. fashion has become so globalized that there is greater pressure to stand out and more importantly stand apart. out being near the edge of negative and apart being based in greater distinction. i loved the played roles of simplicity and complexity in this collection. i found it unnecessary for there to be cameos of womenswear, this has always been a pet peeve of mine during show season. rather than interestingly contrasting the ideas of womenswear with the shown menswear, it seemed frivolous and without any real necessity for the vision of the collection. beyond that, it was a distraction. and not a good one. it seemed to clog the shows deliverance in my mind. almost like an obstacle in the middle of the road. one that you just want to move so you can get to where you’re going. as a newer eponymous line on the scene, the menswear collections from pomilio were debuted only as of FW11. perhaps the inclusion of womenswear are his hopes of also creating that line. understable, yes- but still not as necessary for the process of creating a name in menswear first. with a diploma from the institue of art in pesaro, pompilio earned a masters in fashion design at marangoni, out in milan. to his credit, his work has developed through his past work in the luxury sector with brands like dell’aqua, prada, calvin klein and yves saint laurent. pompilio describes his design approach as being rooted in ‘italian sensitivity, international vision and refined high design skills’. an interesting vision of style for sure.

visit style.com to see archived collections by andrea pompilio 
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SPRING MENSWEAR • VERSACE SS14

MILAN – the house of versace has the strongest DNA, likely, in all of italian fashion history. the medusa is one of the most recognized emblems in all of fashion, as it’s relevance has chronicled the birth of the supermodel in the 90’s and drew it’s way into hip-hop on the backs of iconic rappers tupac shakur and christopher ‘the notorious B.I.G.’ wallace. it appears as though the house is looking to tap into that same approach these days. the SS14 menswear collection resonates on a level of nostalgia for me. the silhouettes, the shoulders, the hair- it was all very 90’s. there was no bigger fashion house in the 90’s than the house of versace. with the death anniversary of versace’s founder, gianni versace, approaching this july, it will be sixteen years since the design great was murdered in miami. while the detailed reports of gianni’s death are completely haunting and unforgettable, he legacy lives on through the house. the bold colors, the assembly line of sex appeal disguised as a runway is exactly what the house of versace is at the core. with donatella set in stone, almost as iconic as the label’s own medusa- the re-popularization of versace is reaching critical mass as their involvement with H&M seemed to remind them what value was seen in the iconic, vivacious designs of italy. while other labels have scaled back to minimalism, or subdued concepts- the house of versace appears to be kicking it up a notch and heading back to their roots. not afraid to come off as over the top, and even in some forms vulgar; that fearlessness is what fashion is about. it’s about standing where you are and having a point of view. a direction can become dull when there is no substance behind it and donatella understands that. she regards fashion as a timestamp, and doesn’t regard it as art. she believes fashion is power, and that theme was certainly in full effect this season on the runway. from leather pieces, to tailored suits, the collection ranged a bit- though it never fell off course through that span of versatility. the runway show opened with strength as male models stood ready to pillage the runway. handsome grooming was seen as the collection progressed through a palette of vibrant colors, cooling to a set of black pieces that almost seemed to hint at a darker direction for the fall season to follow. overall, the collection is everything that a versace menswear collection should be, and regardless of the questions we may have about this taste level- we understand that this is versace. it’s fashion that’s intended to birth a reaction.

 

visit style.com to see the archived collections by the house of versace
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SPRING MENSWEAR • DOLCE & GABBANA SS14

MILAN – menswear in the setting of milan would not be complete without dolce & gabbana. the beloved italian label has seen it’s share of losses with the headlines of tax evasion and the emotions felt of betrayal by italians themselves. with all that said, this collection was beautiful. representing classic greece, beautifully thoughtful graphics of greek architecture were vividly splashed across collection pieces. the concept of gods and goddesses wasn’t far off by the looks of the model casting either. the men cast for dolce & gabbana shows are among the best, every season. we’ve seen the label clinging much more tightly to their european roots in the past several years, carefully orchestrating a streamline of this heritage through advertising, and the inclusion of regular italians. nothings more beautiful than a strong sense of reality and that’s what is given to us through stefano and domenico’s work, season by season. the collection images seen in the runway look book are nothing compared to seeing the show through a live stream. the atmosphere is created, the sound, the men, the clothes- it’s all very calming, style from a real sense of purity and a truly inspired level of execution. silouhettes in the collection ranged, some being seen as loose or casually effective for spring. the aesthetics of the collection were so well delivered it was as if you could see the collection advertising campaign unfolding onto the runway. the models appropriately donned gladiator sandals, while the ivory and gold toned palette brought about a feel of masculine romanticism that only dolce could deliver. a strong collection of thoughtful execution, a great representation of style for men in the spring. one of the best even this early into the spring show season.

visit swide.com for more on the inspiration of this season’s collection
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SPRING MENSWEAR • BURBERRY PRORSUM SS14

LONDON – as a defender of british fashion in the present day, burberry is one of the most historic labels to come out of the UK. with christopher bailey holding tight to his vision and modernization of the label, yet again, this season we got was great execution. refined with a hint of boyish shyness, the collection played up to fall tones of bright color contrasts. burberry’s current visual guideline was never once off and the option to shop the collection instantly after it has been show offers a greater competitive edge from burberry. since that one season a few years back that they live streamed a fashion show on this site, they’ve continued their dominance in our new digital age. with serena williams and musical artist, tini tempah seated front row, bailey and the label appear to have a strong grasp on what the label can be and is, through flawless orchestration of press dominance, celebrity affiliation and unbridled creativity soaked in style simplicity. though great, the collection did not bring about any real sense of new or groundbreaking design, instead it was a continuation of what the label has already been doing. as we’ve seen in the international market, this is working for the label- so there’s nothing in need of fixing in that sense. what i loved most of the collection was the styling and comparative nature of certain colors within the palette, the opening look set that tone for me. the mix of camel coat with the grass green sweater and then that sky blue shirt with the red skinny tie and shoes to match; then the pop of yellow with the bag. what could be more perfect for spring? chris bailey is a fuckn boss. everything, atmospherically, was so greatly aligned with what burberry is- the sounds, the staging, styling- it was all done very well. the label will surely continue their path of greatness, and i am already expecting an even greater level of design dominance with their womenswear collection. this season onward, full runway shows will be embedded into each respective post, as footage becomes available. if you missed the livestream of the summer/spring 2014 burberry menswear runway, don’t trip- i got you.

visit burberry.com to shop looks from this collection
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