SPRING MENSWEAR • ANDREA POMPILIO SS14
by Jeremy Danté
MILAN – of milan, it’s often a hit or miss for me. while some labels stay in the lane of passion by way of overkill, others are subdued and can be too subtle at times. the SS14 menswear collection from andrea pompilio remained well balance between those two design spectrums. admittedly, i have not heard much about andrea pompilio and after looking at this collection, i wanted to delve deeper into his past work. the collection, at first glance reminded me a lot of one of my favorite collections from last season’s menswear collections, dries van noten. the blending of patterns isn’t something i do in my off screen life, but this opened me to the idea of that much more. what i love of style now is that nothing is off limits. fashion has become so globalized that there is greater pressure to stand out and more importantly stand apart. out being near the edge of negative and apart being based in greater distinction. i loved the played roles of simplicity and complexity in this collection. i found it unnecessary for there to be cameos of womenswear, this has always been a pet peeve of mine during show season. rather than interestingly contrasting the ideas of womenswear with the shown menswear, it seemed frivolous and without any real necessity for the vision of the collection. beyond that, it was a distraction. and not a good one. it seemed to clog the shows deliverance in my mind. almost like an obstacle in the middle of the road. one that you just want to move so you can get to where you’re going. as a newer eponymous line on the scene, the menswear collections from pomilio were debuted only as of FW11. perhaps the inclusion of womenswear are his hopes of also creating that line. understable, yes- but still not as necessary for the process of creating a name in menswear first. with a diploma from the institue of art in pesaro, pompilio earned a masters in fashion design at marangoni, out in milan. to his credit, his work has developed through his past work in the luxury sector with brands like dell’aqua, prada, calvin klein and yves saint laurent. pompilio describes his design approach as being rooted in ‘italian sensitivity, international vision and refined high design skills’. an interesting vision of style for sure.