SPRING MENSWEAR • VIVIENNE WESTWOOD SS14

by Jeremy Danté

MILAN – of my favorite labels through the years, the vivienne westwood aesthetic is one that i could not understand upon first getting familiar with fashion. now, in the present day, i regard vivienne westwood like many other style mavens do, as one of the greats. always a standout, from concept to model cast, the collection showcased male models doused in plaids, multi-cultural garb and berets. collections by westwood always appear as a melting pot of sorts. there is often a combined aesthetic at vivienne westwood, it’s a culmination of ideas and styles. this season felt a bit more about internationality. i loved the use of blue in the collection, amidst the sea of colors that was provided on the runway. there were a few looks that provided a gradation of blue to brown- incredibly chic. the cast of models ranged in ethnicity, which drove the feel of internationality even further. the westwood way is about manipulating expectations and regularity in style. from the oversized dress shirts that turned into tunic to the isolated use of stripes and morrocan prints. every look presented another great set of details, in looking at this collection multiple times, you notice more details. as i have said many seasons before, the power of vivienne westwood’s design eye is a feast for the eyes. that power lives in the fact that the complete runway looks are unlike anything you’ve ever seen. those pieces still pack as powerful a punch as singular elements as well. you take one westwood jacket and pair it with a simple pant or even a basic t-shirt- magic. that’s what fashion is about, expanding the vision of what style can be. westwood has built greater content through her fashion design beyond expanding the ways we view style. models on the runway wore postcards that promototed the website activeresistance.co.uk. the site is cited as active resistance to propoganda, with exploration in conversation and demonstrative protests in relation to enviornmental responsibility, politics and the justice system as well as thoughts of culture.  as always a favorite of mine for the season. the show promotes the story of injustice regarding the arrest of united states army soldier, bradley manning. manning was arrested in 2010 while in iraq on suspicion of having passed classified material to the website wikileaks. a full scale rundown of vivienne’s past collections appears on the site, providing explanation and subject matter for each collection. a genius idea, and brilliant format for providing a stronger base of vision through fashion design. vivienne westwood is criminally underrated as a designer and true influencer style. strong collection and vision.

visit activeresistance.co.uk for more information about vivienne westwood’s movement
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