SPRING MENSWEAR • ALEXANDER WANG SS14

NEW YORK – as my milan round of collection reviews come to an end, i wanted to make a brief stop over in new york before i ramp up with the finale of men’s fashion week in paris. wang’s work at balenciaga has already begun developing, but i’ve been excited to see the aliance or departure between alexander wang and all the other fashion entities he’s balancing. what i love of the alexander wang design presence is that feel of casual, that feel of cool, of relaxed. it’s not this fussy type shit that other labels try and promote or create on the runway. part of the luxury of being a male in today’s world is to be able to just throw shit on. the alexander wang label and his menswear collections celebrate that casual-ity of male style. there’s an air of athelticism, combined with a downtown type of feel. the alexander wang menswear label has never deviated from what it has always been. theres almost an urban street wear flavor that wang’s menswear collections take on. when you see wang’s womenswear collections, you understand the crossover appeal of luxury, but the menswear label remains grounded. not grounded in the sense that it’s lacking success, but grounded in a way that keeps it real. i love that. the clothes represent that feel for me, and the subtlety of the details is what allows the clothes to move past that sense of regularity, or commonality. it’s the choice to do a leather collar, or the choice to add extra stitching to a pant. it’s clean, fresh & masculine- but not in a way that’s off-putting. it’s relatable and familiar. that’s what fashion and style should represent, a feel, a direction, an edge.

visit style.com for archived collections designed by alexander wang
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SPRING MENSWEAR • VALENTINO SS14

PARIS – valentino will always have a special place in my heart. no change in that hype this season. the idea of couture menswear is actually genius, especially since the longstanding tradition of such by reference of bespoke is now a dead aspect of the industry. pierpaolo piccioli and maria grazia chiuri have cited ‘couture as culture’ which plays up well to the angle of writing i’ve been shapeshifting into. the world of style is just that, it’s own world. it’s has it’s own language, it’s own set of players and most don’t understand how thorough this sense of culture is in fashion. while it’s easy for outsiders to look down on us, one cannot argue with great clothes, or dope style. the valentino collection represents much of that modernized approach, and it’s even that much more important in menswear because there seems to be such strict guidelines for what men can and cannot wear. the house of valentino brought fourth the powerful trend of camoflauge back into the trend stratosphere which rapidly dominated the trend market as soon as valentino walked the runway. this season, we see similar aesthetics to what was presented last season, and last season- the house of valentino was my absolute favorite menswear collection despite the fact that i was still on an extended runway review hiatus. through what appears as simplicity, reveals a greater level of complexity in design, and even deeper, in construction. it’s all in the details. details that cannot possibly be given the necessary amount of justice in either images or pictures. in an effort the cover the collection in a way that allows you the opportunity to objectively decide what you think of the collection, i’ve made every attempt to give you only what i have a feeling for, also making it a point to include video when footage is available. visit valentino.com to see the full runway show video and check back for footage to be added to this post once it becomes available in high resolution. a strong collection rooted in sophistication.

see the full runway show of this collection at valentino.com
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SPRING MENSWEAR • GUCCI SS14

MILAN – the house of gucci was the first label that i ever paid attention to, thanks to tom ford. while i’ve had my share of resentment towards frida giannini for not being like tom ford. i’ve learned to accept the difference. while i’ve been on the fence about gucci’s menswear aesthetic for the last several years, this season, gianini you killed it. this collection is everything that fashion for men should be. it’s polished and handsome, poised and perfect. this is what gucci is all about. handsome and fuction, the collection gave me such inspiration. the use of accesories, the grooming, the use of color. the balance of subtlety and design drama. it was perfect and this collection is without a doubt one of my favorites of the season, and one of my favorites under the direction of frida giannini. the scene was set and the colletion was very backed by an incredible soundtrack. yes, yes, yes- this is fashion!!! individuals who work in the luxury sector of retail can often regard gucci as being ‘ghetto’ or even ‘low level’. in the accessories market, comparable to gucci’s main competitor louis vuitton, the label can often be underestimated. that said, gucci still is the greatest selling italian label of all time. thanks in large part to tom ford, and while this is a remarkable feat, frida giannini is a genius herself and has developed an understanding of the label so thorough that she’s allowed the label to remain at that level. i loved the milky tones at the front end of the collection and the use of minimalism. there was a sleek energy in the collection that was so powerfully chic. every doubt i’ve had was washed away with this collection. nothing groundbreaking, yet it was a familiar style that i personally, strongly identify with. when i think of menswear and i think of an aesthetic goal, when i have thoughts of a certain looking being achieved. this is what comes to mind. and look by look, it appeared on the runway as if it had come from my fucking dreams. outstanding collection and completely necessary interpretation of male style. this. is. gucci!

 

visit style.com to see archived collecitons by the house of gucci
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SPRING MENSWEAR • DSQUARED² SS14

MILAN – with their trademark use of denim and over the top shows, dean and dan canten scored this season. always a sight to see on the runway, while the clothes don’t always exceed expectation, there is a signature style that is unabashedly represented each and every season without fail. while there are present visual signatures in their shows, i wonder if these concepts are actually just one note tricks that are intended to be camoflauged through production of the actual runway show. you seen the DSQUARED² expected elements- the eye wear, the distressed denim, the boots, the form fitting tops, great use of color. and while the season 2014 marking on the collection review is, yes, new- how new are these concepts? the collection was more of a stranded on an island theme. the models walked the runway with elements of utilitarian dripping from their every limb. the appearance of sunless tanner reminded me of past collections by dean and dan, but i was still entertained. i don’t know what’s worse, the fact that they create the same shit and present it differently, or the fact that it so sellable in that format. one cannot argue with a great style signature and DSQUARED² is a label that understands that. you’ll always see male bodies, casting will be strong, concepts will be something traditional yet newly stylized or revised. overall, the collection was great though nothing new. stunning show production and a great communication of a vision that relies heavily on the existing customer base to ensure success in the retail market. spring is all about print and this collection held great use of that. there was a range of more summer pieces, plus a few pieces that could easily segue you into the fall/winter seasons as well. great collection, but i see what y’all did and don’t think we didn’t notice y’all stayed on your old shit and tried to repurpose it as something new.

 

visit style.com for archived collections by DSQUARED²
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