SPRING MENSWEAR • HAIDER ACKERMANN SS14
by Jeremy Danté
PARIS – returning to the realm of menswear, haider ackermann sticks to his guns and shows us the DNA of his artistry in the vein of his personal style. that’s what the mark of true designers is, in this day in age. you want a designer that completely embodies his work, and wears it himself. haider ackermann is one of the best designers, as he remains in his own lane of artistic approach. it’s almost the equivalent of an actor getting into character. that’s what ackermann does; you’ll see him photographed around paris rocking these robe-like pieces and when you see his menswear collections, you see the same thing. it’s the same, as redundant. it’s the same as in consistent. which is powerful. that’s a sure shot way to drive your visual signature home. on or off the runway, it should be about promoting that vision. it should be a full circle movement of promotion. it’s about promoting the vision as a lifestyle, not as some momentary trend of phase in a wide ranged life of looks. while it’s easy to fall into that trap of redundancy, but i think the haider ackermann label is definitely one that has the ability, and can afford to stick to a direction long enough to promote it to the masses. beyond any of the promotion of a direction, you see the collection and it’s so fuckn chic. it’s relaxed and almost seductive in a way. it’s like a chic pair of pajamas. and we’re not talking ratty pajama bottoms with obnoxious print, we’re talking luxe textiles, fine grooming and a carefully casted set of male models in looking to promote that direction. i would’ve like to see more models of color in this collection, as there was no color at all, whatsoever. while the collection represents that feel of casual appeal that i often associate with paris, the collection would’ve been that much more effective if a range of ethnicities were presents, to showcase the global appeal of such style. a strong collection filled with true signatures of the ackermann name. a favorite of mine this season, for sure.
visit haiderackermann.be for more information on his label
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