by Jeremy Danté

PARIS – gaultier is an icon so incredibly iconic, that he’s almost slept on in that regard. the fashion market is so saturated with what’s new or next that the veterans seem to fall behind while the rest of the industry centers focus on youth. which is a fucked up reality for many, many reasons. this season, presented off runway, the jean paul gaultier collection elevates the use of look book imagery. this collection was revealed in the form of a video, directed by jessica yatrofsky. it’s easy for established labels to get lost in the hustle and bustle of modernization, especially in high fashion and i usually expect a great show from gaultier. his vision is unparalleled in fashion, and he is a true original. this collection, though interesting, didn’t seem to channel that same feel of excitement that we’ve seen in the past while on the runway. i will admit the choice to reveal the collection through video is a modern idea, we’ve seen it used for other designers like gareth pugh and it’s been very well received. gaultier is a true visionary and these mere look book images are nothing compared to the video version of the collection. i loved the combining of patterns, the layering was innovative and fresh, while the gaultier vision was well translated. what i love of gaultier is the feel of the unexpected, you know you’ll get something new each season, even if it’s something you don’t initially understand. i loved the diversity in casting and the layered look book images. the idea of shooting on a rooftop is interesting as well. it’s almost symbollic of gaultier’s status in fashion, a rooftop being a high point, but still existing on a level that is somewhat grounded. should be interesting to see how these elements of modernization will be plugged into his womenswear collections. with couture season already underway, gaultier has more to show.

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