by Jeremy Danté

PARIS – men’s couture has been cast out of the spotlight for many, many years. not showcasing as popular a concept for men as it has long been for women, the valentino label has steadily aimed to change that. providing ready-to-wear options with higher quality craftsmanship and construction to bring the world of couture to the realm of menswear, this season brought continuity to those aims. at the face of the collection it may not seem like couture, but any real fashion head knows that the power is in the details. five of the coats in this collection were hand made, produced in double face cashmere at the valentino atelier. in interviews pierpaolo piccioli and maria grazia chiuri reminded the press that the very DNA of the valentino brand is rooted in couture. which is true, the house of valentino has long held up the reputation of their haute couture roots, even in the modern day. i love the balance of masculine and feminine, in viewing the creative work of piccioli and chiuri. the collection felt casual and presented bouts of print. casual as a façade, yes- but luxe down to the details. that interchangeability of fashion is what style in 2014 is all about. i love this collection for it’s recognition of both brand identity and style releavance. the valentino brand has successfully reached a plateau of well adjusted design. there is a greater awareness of marketability and defiance pushing creativity. as a label, they are largely to credit for the re-introduction of camo on the style scene, as minor elements of that were presented in this collection, appearing like a segue for new shit to pop off this year. an expectedly strong effort of menswear, one of my favorite labels of all time, in both menswear, womenswear and haute couture. a prime example of what modern day menswear should look like. and lemme tell you, if double face cashmere is considered ready-to-wear, imagine what we can expect for couture.

visit style.com for full coverage of the FW14 men’s show season
click image to view collection gallery