FALL MENSWEAR • GIVENCHY FW14

PARIS – saving the best for last. commentary in this space has revolved around the message that both suit and sport are becoming very quickly aligned in the market of style. as the categorization of independent and corporate continue forth on the battle field of artistic expression, the FW14 collection presented by riccardo tisci for givenchy is a prime and ripe example of what i have been saying all along. my christmas gifts this year were all purchased for my family, through nike.com; amazingly i have found myself to be at one with culture, in a way that leaks through my writing, my personal taste level and surrounds the dialogue between each of those financial, creative and expressive transactions. givenchy has remained a fashion rarity for me; always giving us the new, now and next of style. this season, the feel and direction of athleticism was inspiringly produced. a neon light lit basketball court fenced male models in for the runway show. in light of the announcement that tisci himself will be collaborating with nike this year, the collection seemed more fitting than ever. most interesting to me were the basketball inspired lines in the collection. i loved the tamed palette and injections of color throughout. the merge of sport and art was present as well, as the collection clothes seemed to merge on the court elements with high art signatures of mondrian. male models walked the runways with ‘nothin but net’ fishnets lining their faces, unmarked black fitted six panel baseball caps and appropriately, sneakers. fur jerseys, and the always beautiful male model castings by way of daniel peddle accentuated the feel of diversity, as only givenchy can. what is so liberating about givenchy, is their merge of the street and the runway; they take urban elements and spin them into luxury. we, as consumers, feel presented by the urban elements, which is why givenchy has been lyrical content for multiple rappers on the musical scene. tisci is a true visionary, and cultural inspiration for an international audience.

visit givenchy.com to explore their archive of inspiration
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FALL MENSWEAR • UMIT BENAN FW14

PARIS – “no to racism, for the love the game” read a piece of paper that umit benan carried out at the end of his FW14 menswear runway show in paris. there was a ‘great day in harlem’ feel to the collection which was both inspired and genuinely re-created. the entire cast of male models were of black; ranging in age from young to old. the wide ranged set of designs fared well in contrast with benan’s past work, proving to be a fitting addition to his archive. completely defining classic menswear style, the idea of all-black casting is one that has become a bold statement in fashion. some question whether this is a momentary act of recognition or a mainstay. diversity across the board in fashion has been in question for the past several years. with models like naomi campbell and iman tackling the issues head on, the runway seems to be making progress. the collection presented benan signatures in both style, as well as casting. i applaud the true mark of showmanship exemplified this season, and hope that umit benan, as a label, will continue to represent diversity as it has in the past and present, as well as unbridled talent in the scope of menswear design. i loved that the collection felt a bit more pedestrian- relatable. it was down to earth, it felt familiar. the models brought about an ease, as if they had on their own clothes and it all magically happened to work together in a collection. the varsity-style letter “B” that adorned the collections outerwear brought about a feel of camaraderie, in the sense of a fraternity, or brotherhood. the message of hope, as it relates to diversifying fashion stood out, stronger than the clothes, while the clothes helped this message to be conveyed.

visit style.com for full coverage of the FW14 men’s show season
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FALL MENSWEAR • ACNE STUDIOS FW14

PARIS – i remember when i first began airing the now cancelled, fashion report on youtube; someone commented about how i didn’t know shit about fashion because all i talked about was vuitton, gucci, prada and fendi. true as that statement may be, it still had no barring on what i know of style, as i see it, in my life. over time though, my fascination of fashion has evolved greatly. i find myself drifting from bigger labels, while still maintaining an understanding of their power, as well as their influence on the marketplace as a whole. this show season, i’ve taken an active position to make selections that stem from personal choices. these personal choices are what have allowed my creative work to be viewed from another perspective. a perspective that differs from other writers or, for lack of better articulation, low-budget bloggers. one label that i feel represents the same lane that i feel i do, in terms of creative independence, free from restraint is acne. this collection, though simple, showcases an approach to design that finds no reason necessary to follow or dictate trends. instead, what is presented consistently by the label is clean shit. this season, i loved this collection more than i did of kenzo, or vuitton, more than i loved of kris van assche or saint laurent. why? for simple reasons. there is a certain wearability or function that i look for in making selections for show season. acne is one of my favorite labels, and this collection is a proper visual of why. strong collection of outwear, an unexpected injection of furry footwear, and profound sense of style through use of color, in palette. i waited for paris, and though disappointed by the bigger labels, i was still able to find shit that i absolutely love. one of my favorites of the FW14 menswear season, especially in the corner of paris.

visit style.com for full coverage of the FW14 men’s show season
click image to view collection gallery