THE TOP FIVE RESORT 2015 COLLECTIONS
by Jeremy Danté
the start of show season is usually guided by the pre-season collections, and this season was no different. clean lines are my choice aesthetic, thus that theme was recurring in my selections. whether it was classic 70’s re-invention, or greater modernization of new school leaders, these five were my absolute favorites from what was presented, off runway, before the start of the true chaos known as show season. acting as an appetizer of my runway coverage, this countdown was kept quaint with great intention. the selections themselves were kept smaller in scale, in an effort to not too heavily distract from other stronger collections which are seen in areas of both menswear and womenswear. this is just the tip of the iceberg.
HALSTON – as one of the great american originals in high fashion, the house of halston is no stranger to success. but at present day, the halston heritage collection is not as visible as it should be. i was pleased to see this resort collection and the modern approach, in classic halston form was served well. easily competitive with other new school labels, the halston brand has enjoyed it’s share of attempt to re-introduce and while this collection is nothing completely groundbreaking, the collection still shows promise. with creative director, marie mazelis at the helm, the label seems to show promise of a different grade. that said, there is still more to come. a successful runway show, for starters. a strong campaign, and even stronger collection that houses concepts that raise the bar of the 70’s fashion house in a way that is reflective of their history, and progressive enough to open doors of new opportunity. much like what we’ve seen at balenciaga or christian dior; the idea of re-establishing a house in a modern way without compromising it’s DNA is definitely possible. a controlled palette allowed the collection to remain unchained by too much trend, in order to tap into the houses roots. with show season around the corner, we’ll be able to see which ways halston, label, re-envisions it’s heritage. with so many disappointments in trying to revitalize the label, i am not willing to bet on their efforts, but can definitely appreciate a committed approach to re-birth. an applauded effort, but unsparingly, i am expecting to see much more development in the new show season, as well as in the following three years. with a campaign and strong direction- this shows potential.
JASON WU – the new school sophisticate, jason wu continues to dominate with unending chic- even in the pre-season. a strong collection of concepts that are mindful of past work, i am excited to see the ways that these looks are aligned with his new collection during new york fashion week. milky pastels ruled the color story for the collection and fashion seriousness was all over the models faces. jason wu has steadily marketed and improved his aesthetic in an interesting way. representing some of the greatest american talent on the scene currently, wu has moved with greater ease and stronger concepts season after season, and this pre-season, that approach was powerfully felt in delicate delivery. the broken crown molding on the backdrop of the collection images was interesting, and almost representative of wu’s modernized take on the classics. the collection was overtly sexual, and poses a certain energy that crosses boundaries of age. piece by piece or complete look, each wardrobe visual provided in this set was immaculately done. there was enough prowess to communicate strength, while there was also enough gentle coordination of what it takes, in our modern times, to be a lady. admirably so, i expect the same level of sophistication from wu’s collection come this show season, on the runways of new york fashion week. i love seeing the ways that he further remixes the classics in ways that allow you to appreciate what is protected, while being inspired by the ways that those elements have also become revitalized.
MAX MARA – clean and crisp femininity are among the common themes that tie all of my selections this pre-season, together. the max mara collections all contain a certain cleanliness about them, which i love. often times, too clean can border boring- but that’s not the case with the mara label. there’s a way that italian labels do minimalism which seems to come from a pure place of contrast, as much of milan as a fashion scene has been built on maximal-ism. this pre-season, though simple and clean, the label opted to ornament their clean looks with more maximalist elements. resulting in a new, fresh approach that packs more power from look to look. the privately owned family label has done an excellent job at consistently competing with more of the new school labels who have adopted minimalist concepts. from pre-season, to show season, and through campaign season, max mara is one label that serves the classics in well rounded form, and feminine charm. loved the use of fur in this collection, and liked that i felt more personality, which is important for labels who are committed to the simplistic design approach. in palette, i loved the ways that the contrasting tones were combined with the soft greys that i have grown to associate with the label. while some of the styling seemed to be a bit forced, i definitely respect the slight alteration in direction. it’s ambitious enough for the pre-season, and hints at an even greater effort that waits in the wings for this show season. a great lead in for the spring show season.
MUGLER – structural chic void of theatricality, but in a good way. the mugler label has seemingly been built on the basis of drama and exaggerated silhouettes. this pre-season collection beautifully ushers the mugler label into more modern design territory. there is a simplicity in this collection, and a very stripped manner in which beauty is shown. the debut collection by newly appointed creative director, david coma; the collection is beautifully conceptualized and sharply executed. the use of sheer, the strength seen in the use of shape or even lack thereof- there was nothing particularly mugler about this collection aside from that strength. there was a purity to this resort set, and the combined use of color and black and white images was done perfectly. as another collection of clean lines, this selection proves that the aesthetic of high fashion minimalism is only growing more popular with time. mostly black and white in palette, with notes of blood orange and cobalt blue, the collection proves to be a stunning entry for koma, whom is sure to lead the label into greater, more serious fashion avenues. nicola formichetti seemed to respect and align the direction of the label more closely with past work of thierry mugler; but this presented limited sense of new and revitalization in my mind. relying on celebrity cameos and overly aggressive characterization on the runway, that presence seemed to overwhelm the clothes, only further distracting from them. which is what makes all the simplicity of this collection that much more stunning. simplicity is the silence amidst noise, and in fashion- there is plenty of noise. any moment of solace is appreciated, and this here was pure.
SALLY LAPOINTE – graduating from goth aesthetics; sally lapointe is a design label which thrives on the brink of the new era in fashion. lighter, more feminine and progressive- the collection we see from lapointe is everything that sophistication is for the modern woman. true growth is seen here, and the lapointe label has a relationship with this site. as one of the first designer labels who has consistently remains in contact from season to season, regarding new collection, fashion show invites- the lapointe label is one that has been on this site’s radar for sometime. as the final selection for my resort collection round-up, i am truly proud of the growth that is visible in concept and execution. the use of fur in this collection was by far my favorite; the use of color was done so in a way that was very adult. that maturity was well balanced with a sleek set of design lines that felt unlike any other collection from lapointe, that we’ve seen in the past. that’s what fashion is all about, growth, and monitoring a certain type of evolution. super excited to see what ways lapointe has grown on the runways of new york fashion week this coming show season. i love the blurred lines of feminine and masculine, while femininity is leaned more toward in a subtle manner. perfect combination of appeal to the modern fashion market. clean lines, careful selection of color, and attention to detail in all the ways that draw you in. this is pre-season, next up? menswear.
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